Align Trex 450L Dominator

ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR

 

ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR BREAKDOWN

Align Trex 450L Dominator Review
Align Trex 450L Dominator – Necessary Items
Align Trex 450L Dominator – The Build  NEW
Align Trex 450L Dominator – Spektrum DX8 Settings  NEW
Align Trex 450L Dominator – Gpro Setup  NEW
Align Trex 450L Dominator – BeastX Settings  NEW

 

 

 

 

ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – MANUALS

Align 3GX (HEG3GX01)
Align 3GX mR (HEG3GX02)
Align 3GX mRS (HEG3GX03)
Align GPRO (HEGPRO01)
Align Trex 450L Dominator 3S with 3GX (RH45E13XT)
Align Trex 450L Dominator 6S with 3GX (RH45E10X)Align Trex 450L Dominator 6S with GPRO (RH45E17X)
Align Trex 450L Dominator 6S with GPRO (RH45E17X)

BEASTX MICROBEAST – MANUAL

BeastX Microbeast Manual
Spektrum AR7200BX (BeastX) Manual

 

 

ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – REVIEWalign trex 450l dominator

The Build – Before Flight

When I received my Align Trex 450L Dominator, I had a moment of deja vu from my Align Trex 250 DFC build when I opened the box to realize all of the parts and pieces that I would soon be putting together.  I also had a revelation that I would need a bigger work space than my normal work bench, so I cleared of my dining room table and began the assembly.  I quickly discovered that I was unprepared for this heli, since most of my micro heli tools were too small.  All except one of my MIP hex drives.  The allen wrenches that come with the heli aren’t very practical, so you will need to buy some new tools.

The design of the Align Trex 450L Dominator is very straightforward and the Trex 450L is really a work of art.  I really enjoyed this build and everything went together effortlessly.  If you work on it non-stop, there is no reason that you can’t throw this heli together in around six hours.  One thing that I want to point out before I go further is that you should’ve been cycling your batteries by the first sentence of this review.  This is the 6S version and the six cell batteries require cycling before use.  They do take some time to cycle…a lot of time.

The more screws that I installed on my Align Trex 450L Dominator the more anxious I became to get it in the air.  My goal is to keep it stock for now, although I did upgrade a couple of the plastic tail parts with KDE metal upgrades.  I go over the how and why during the build portion.  I am also very impressed with the Gpro Flybarless System.  Accept for the normal mechanical set up of the servo arms, swashplate leveling, and zero pitch for the head, the rest of the setup is done entirely using the Gpro software.  Another impressive feature of the Gpro Flybarless System is the optional blue tooth adapter that allows you to adjust the settings on the fly using any smart phone and the Grpo App.

The Align Trex 450L Dominator assembly was very smooth and quick.  There is plenty of room to route all of the wiring with ease.  The worst part with that was routing the ESC wiring so that it cleared the motor, but I go over how to do that as well during the build section so you won’t have to play around with yours as much as I did.  None of the screws that were installed in the factory assembled parts were tight or had Loctite on them, so you will need to ensure that all of them are removed and Loctite applied (a bottle comes included).

The Build

I’ve ran into quite a few small but important issues during my build that I decided to add a Build Section to my review.  As stated above the Align Trex 450L Dominator build is easy and smooth over all.  The Gpro Flybarless Unit is very easy to setup as compared to the 3GX and BeastX.  However, I still need to test it in flight.  I finished my build on 13 March 2015 and prepared to attempt my maiden flight the following day.  I spooled my Dominator up slowly at first and realized that my rudder servo needed to be reversed.  After reversing my rudder servo, my second attempt at a maiden flight was interrupted by my tail gears no longer spooling up with the motor.

I took my Dominator inside to investigate the tail issue I was having and discovered not one… not two, but ten stripped frame screws and was unable to remove enough of the screws in order to pull off the tail casing.  The stripped screws are the stock M2.5 x 5mm screws attaching the bottom plate to the side frames (3 of the forward) and the side frame to the main shaft bearing blocks (7 of the eight).  I work on jets in the Navy and have drilled the heads of many jet fastners, so I am not mechanically challenged by any means.  Needless to say, I was unable to drill the heads from the screws.  Speed Out didn’t work either and yes, there is an adapter small enough to fit these screws in that package.

The stock screws are simply too soft for these methods to work.  I even gave heat a try.  I cut my losses and just ordered a new frame and finally received it yesterday.  This is not a complaint since I over come and adapt.  This was my fault, since I was a bit more cautious about how tight the screws are on the Align Trex 450L Dominator than I usually am because of the size.  I should have known better since the screws on my Align Trex 250 DFC were the same type.  The good news is that I have a work around for them and a few others that I see as “iffy,” since I am not taking my chances the second time around.  I will be posting replacements for them all.

The bad news is that you will need to buy the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag ($35.99).  Until you get the hardware bag, do not Loctite or torque down the M2.5 x 5mm stock screws which means that you will need to check these screws to make sure that they are not backing out after each flight.  They are garbage and will strip very very very easily.  Does this make me regret the purchase?  Not at all, I haven’t purchased one rc helicopter yet that didn’t have some issue like this in one way or the other.  After all, getting into this hobby requires us to become good mechanics long before we are expert pilots.  I am here to share my mistakes so that you don’t have to make them.

The Hardware Bag is a definite must and not a bad thing.  It is always good to have spare screws, washers, etc.  As I was finishing up the rebuild, I realized that the pushrod isn’t straight from the tail servo to the rudder and that explains why my pushrod was bending sometimes during the setup process.  Since my homemade carbon rod is working so well on my Align Trex 250 DFC, I will be making one for the Align Trex 450L Dominator and while I am at it my Blade 180 CFX.  Stay tuned for that.  I also modded the tail boom case and the hardware bag has the necessary set screws for that.  You will need a Dremel or drill for that.  If you don’t have one, at this point in the hobby you should invest in one.

After Flight

After spending time with the Align Trex 450L Dominator, it’s a beast.  I’m still intimidated, but loving the intimidation.  The Align Trex 450L Dominator is powerful and touchy so if this is your first one of this size, use Expo at first.  For sure this heli is durable.  On my second maiden I got distracted and lost control.  I wasn’t able to recover it and my 450L slammed into a brick wall and then fell 50 feet to the concrete below.  From the look and sound of the impact, I just knew that it was demolished.  To my surprise after climbing the wall, I only needed to replace the motor (seized up) and the main blades.  You cannot beat that in a crash of that magnitude.  When I was deciding to step up I was looking at the Align Trex 550L Dominator as well as the Align Trex 450L Dominator.

Overall I’m glad that I went with the Align Trex 450L Dominator as my next step up because of it’s size.  The power along with size of a 550 would have really intimidated me.  I’m still not sure if I am ready for this level of power and precision, but it is just as fun to hover and do some forward flight with this jewel daydreaming of the day that I am not going to be so afraid of putting it in the dirt.  Never a good day, but you know what I am saying.  The Align Trex 450L Dominator has shown me that I still have a lot to learn about this hobby and has blown my mind with how I am still learning just from orientation flying with a bigger, more powerful heli.  It has been a great learning tool for me and I am sure that it will be for you as well.

Back to Top

 

ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – NECESSARY ITEMS

I am putting the hardware bag at the top of the list because the stock M2.5 x 5mm screws strip so easily (Build Review).

1.  Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag

The included allen wrenches are useless for the most part.  I used the biggest one to remove the blade grips for loctiting.

2.  Hexagon Screw Drivers (I highly recommend MIP Drives)
a.  3mm
b.  2.5mm
c.  2mm
d.  1.5mm
3.  Needle Nose Pliers
4.  Power Drill or Dremel
5.  Swashplate Leveler
6.  Pitch Gauge (I used my iPhone)
7.  Spektrum Satellite/Receiver (if using a Spektrum Radio)
8.  Extra Zip Ties
9.  Extra Velcro (for batteries)
10.  Extra Hook/Loop Straps (I’ve used 3 so far)
11.  Thin CA Glue
12.  Oil (I use Tri-Flow)
13.  Grease (I use Tri-Flow)

The following are not necessary but highly recommended:

1.  Align Trex 500 Tail Boom Brace (H50036A)
2.  Medium Loctite – Blue (stronger Loctite is included, but medium is more than sufficient for the screws)
3.  Align Metal Rudder Servo Mount
4.  KDE Vertical Stabilizer Mount
5.  KDE Tail Control Link Upgrade

Back to Top

 

ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – THE BUILD

 

This section is very long and I was going to chop it up, but decided not to since it’s pretty much step by step of my build.  I tried to gear this section to the first time builders, so if you are experienced I am not trying to insult your intelligence.  Just a lot of information to give and I want everyone to benefit.

Here is what’s in the box.  Everything is beautifully packaged and compact.

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The M2*3 linkage balls are stapled inside the manual (for the servo arms).  Just be mindful that they are there.  I removed them from the manual and put them with the rest of the parts, so that I wouldn’t lose them.

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The Main Blades (Main Blades/Tail Boom Parts), Electric Device (Gpro FBL/Servos), and Frame Set.

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Frame Set Box

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Electric Device Box

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Main Blade Box

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Now to start putting it all together.  As to be expected, this build took some time and a lot of Blue Loctite.  This is my first major build after my Align Trex 250 DFC and I’ve taken my time with it.  A lot was learned and of course a few mistakes were made along the way.  I’m going to explain everything that I learned along the way, but this time I am going to add the videos that helped me out the way so that you have all of the information possible to help you out on your build.  Needless to say, this is going to be a huge page.  Please read everything and watch every video if you want a flawless build.  This page will get your Align Trex 450L Dominator in the air if  you look through all of the information.

Mistake #1

I did research everything I could on this build before I even received my Align Trex 450L.  The video below explains the problem with the stock screws stripping easily.  I ignored this because this is an issue with every build if you over tighten.  That’s not the case here.  The stock screws strip easily period with practically no effort!!!  In fact, this issue delayed my build significantly and was the biggest mistake that I made since Easy Out was no help getting them out (pretty much all of the main frame screws).  I had to wait for the  Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag and new frame parts to come in the mail since I had to rip the main frame apart to save the rest of the pieces.  Spend the $39.99 on the hardware bag.

The photos are of my original build with the stock screws.  As I go through each step, I will include every screw that I replaced.  There is a lot in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag and this will help you rummage through it with little or no effort (every bag is labeled and match the sizes listed in the Align Trex 450L Dominator manual).  The good side of the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag is that you will now have a lot of spare screws for your future builds or repairs.  Lastly, it’s important that you organize this build.  I’m not crying about this, just pointing out a problem.  Align does great work and the screw issue was most likely in order to make the Align Trex 450L Dominator affordable.

Here is the video and I’d like to thank nitrokyosho for this video and the awesome advice that I should have taken.  Thank you nitrokyosho for taking the time to make this video!!!

 

In any build it’s good to work your way up from the bottom, so I started by attaching the bottom of the frame to the landing gear.

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These washers go on the 3 screws on the bottom.

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The front and back screw here is longer than the middle screw.  You may need to remove some of the screws during the build so don’t Loctite or tighten them too much until  you are almost done and ready for your maiden.  Also give the Loctite time to cure before flight.  I let mine cure for 24 hours.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Front and back screw:  M2.5 x 10mm
Middle screw:  M2.5 x 5mm

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Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

The 6 side screws in these metal frame brackets:  M2.5 x 5mm

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After you have one side of the frame installed, attach the Frame Mounting Bolts.  I haven’t had to swap the stock screws on them yet, but they are in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Frame Mounting Bolts:  M2.5 x 6mm

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I replaced the stock screws for the Metal Bearing Holders.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Metal Bearing Holders – 8 Screws:  M2.5 x 5mm

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Next install the Battery Trey Holder.  I didn’t change the stock screws.  There are spares in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

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Here I went ahead and got the swashplate ready for install.  I only added Loctite and tightened down the 2 forward linkage balls.  I left the elevator linkage ball (back long linkage ball) and the linkage balls for the head grip rods loose.  The elevator linkage ball I left loose for swash leveling later.  The linkage balls for the head grips because it’s hard to remove the links once they are on the linkage balls, so I left the linkage balls loose because I just unscrew them with the links attached for adjustment later.

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The head comes assembled.  You will need to take it apart in order to apply grease to the feathering shaft and thrust bearings.  You will also need to Loctite all of the screws during reassembly.  Loctite is not applied from the factory.

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This is the only part of the build that I used the included allen wrench.  I used it to hold one end of the feather shaft screws for removal and reinstall.

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The thrust bearing that needs grease is the bearing on the bottom.  The 2 on the left is the thrust bearing and the gold ring on the right is the washer.  There are actually 3 parts to the thrust bearing but the first part I couldn’t get out and didn’t need to.  If you end up with all 3 pieces, the first (most inner) part of the thrust bearing is labeled with the word “IN”.  The word, “IN” goes back in facing the blade grip.

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This shows the feathering shaft on the left.  All bearing sets are shown.

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Now add grease to the feathering shaft and thrust bearings, then put it all back together.  Below I show the order that it all goes back together, to help clarify the manual.

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Slip on the thrust bearing and washer as shown.

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Install the main bearing behind the thrust bearing and washer.

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The silver collar shown, there are 2.  One goes on between the rotor head and blade grips on each side.

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I used my MIP tool to install the thrust bearing, washer, and main bearing on the other side of the head.

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Next remove the Main Rotor Grip Arms.

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Remove the DFC Linkage Rods.

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Installing the DFC Ball Links on this heli is a nightmare.  The easiest way to do it is with a drill.  Insert the DFC Linkage Rod into your drill.  Set the drill on the lowest setting, you don’t want the drill rotating fast.

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The DFC Ball Links are in this bag.

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Very slowly use the drill to screw the DFC Linkage Rod into the DFC Ball Links.  Notice the space between the threads on one side of the DFC Linkage Rod.  That’s the side that inserts back into the Main Rotor Grip Arms.  The opposite end goes into the DFC Ball Links.

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Next Loctite the DFC Linkage Rods and reinstall them into the Main Rotor Grip Arm, then Loctite the Main Rotor Grip Arm screws and reattach to the Blade Grips.

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Next is setting up the Main Shaft with the swashplate and rotor head.

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One of the nice things about the rotor head on the Align Trex 450L Dominator is that the main rotor head is secured to the main shaft with 3 screws.  One M2 x 12mm on top and two M2 x 6mm on the bottom with M2 nuts.  I replaced the stock screws.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Top Screw – 1:  M2 x 12mm
Bottom Screws – 2:  M2 x 6mm

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Next setting up the motor for installation.

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Install and Loctite the Motor Pinion.  The manual says that you can use the included T22 Loctite on the Motor Pinion, but I use Loctite 609/680 since I trust it and this is a delicate part that I never want to come off prematurely.

I didn’t change the stock screws but there are spares in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

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Leave the motor mounting screws loose for now.  They will be Loctited and tightened after meshing with the main gear during installation.

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These are the Motor Mounting Brackets.

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Install the motor.  I am so glad that this motor is installed on the top and is easy to access.

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The next step is to install and setup the servos, so if you haven’t gotten a battery ready and charged this would be a good time.  In the photos, I am using EC3 connectors from Buddy RC.

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Fill the ESC side connector cups with solder.

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Cover the ESC connectors with solder.

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Carefully solder the ESC connectors on the wires.

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The blue housing is labeled with a “-” and “+”.  The black wire goes in the “-” side and the red goes in the “+” side.  It’s important that you pay attention to this.  If you mix them up you will have one hell of a surprise when you plug the battery into your helicopter or charger.

Also it takes quite a bit of effort to insert the connectors.  You will need a screw driver or tool to help you push them in all of the way.  You will feel a click when they seat all of the way.  Both connectors should be even with each other as well when you are done.  That will tell you if one isn’t seated all of the way.

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Now do the same for the battery.  Again pay attention to the “-” and “+” for the ESC and any connector that you make for your battery charger.

WARNING:  AT THIS POINT BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH EXPOSED WIRES TOGETHER AT ANYTIME.

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Unpack your DS430M cyclic servos (1520/200 hz).

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All 3 of these servos are the same so it doesn’t matter where each one goes on the frame.

I did swap the stock screws out.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Servo Screws – 6:  M2 x 6mm

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The Linkage Ball installs in the second hole on the Servo Horn.   Apply Loctite to the Linkage Ball Nut.

NOTE:  THE PHOTOS SHOW THE STANDARD LINKAGE BALLS.  THE LINKAGE BALLS (M2*3) THAT WERE STAPLED TO THE ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR USER MANUAL GIVES YOU THE BEST ALIGNMENT AND I ENDED UP USING THEM ON SERVOS 2 AND 3 INSTEAD OF THE ONES SHOWN.  THE STANDARD LINKAGE BALL ON SERVO 1 (ELEVATOR SERVO).

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I reference the helicopter as I am looking at it from the back.  So the Servo Horn on the left side (Servo 2/CH 2) of the helicopter shown below is installed with the Linkage Ball facing in.

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The Elevator Servo (Servo 1/CH1) Horn Linkage Ball is in the second hole and faces the inside the helicopter.

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The Servo on the right side (Servo 3/CH3), the Linkage Ball faces inside.

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Now break out the Tail Boom Mount.

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I didn’t swap out the stock screws for this yet and I have removed and reinstalled them many times already.  There are spares in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Tail Boom Mount – 8:  T2.6 x 8mm

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Notice that I still have one side of the frame off still.  This is so it’s easy to adjust and position the wiring as you go.

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Now unpack the Tail Servo DS525M (1520/333 hz) and Tail Servo Mount.

There is a metal version of the Tail Servo Mount.

I have the Metal Tail Servo Mount, but keeping it for a spare for when the stock mount gets worn out.

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I didn’t swap out the stock screws here, but there are spares in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Servo Mount Screws – 4:  T2.6 x 6mm

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The Tail Servo Mount is mounted on by 4 screws and I haven’t swapped out the stock screws.  There are spares in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag Replacement

Tail Servo Mount – 4:  T2.6 x 6mm

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Time to pull out the Tail Boom and Tail.

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I want to take a minute and talk about the stock Tail Boom Brace Set.  They are the standard boom braces from the original Align Trex 450 Pro.  The Tail Boom on the Align Trex 450L Dominator is longer.  This means that the Tail Boom will have a lot of flex during flight with the stock Tail Boom Brace Set and that’s not good for the Torque Tube.  Again nitrokyosho breaks it down with a good visual and I think it is a very good catch.  I haven’t flown it with the stock brace set, because this makes sense and I just took care of it during the build.  I’m not too upset, since the stock brace set is carbon fiber and I’m sure that eventually I will use it for something else later.  You can take your chances but the preferred replacement is the Align Trex 500 Tail Boom Brace (H50036A).  I use it and my tail is solid, so I can’t complain.  Here is nitrokyosho breaking it down even further.  Again thanks for the catch and video nitrokyosho!!!!

Here is the tail and it is assembled from the factory.  It had absolutely no Loctite so we are going to take it apart to check everything and Loctite it.  Take your time with this part.  The tail of any helicopter is very important and full of small pieces and bearings.  Don’t rush this part.

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Here I want to point out that the stock Vertical Stabilizer Mouth is plastic.  This is something that can cause vibes and metal creates a better mount than metal so I swapped out the plastic with the KDE Metal Vertical Stabilizer Mount shown on the left in the photo.

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Now lets get to the tail.  I tried to capture each step as I went, but you may have to refer back to the manual in case I missed something.  There is a lot of moving parts on the tail.  There is no easy way to do this first time out.  It just takes patience and practice.

I didn’t change any of the stock screws in the tail.  I haven’t looked but I am sure there are replacements in the Align Trex 250 – 500 Hardware Bag.

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I trust KDE and saw that they had an upgrade for the Tail Control Links, so I just went with it, since the stock Control Links are plastic and the KDE are metal.  No complaints yet.

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The Tail Grips have thrust bearings (first 3 from the tip) just like the Main Grips.  Once you grease the thrust bearings here is the order that they go back in.

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I had to use my larger MIP tool to get the main bearing out.

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The KDE Tail Control Link setup and installation.

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A bearing is installed on each side of both control links.

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The screw inserts like so for installation.

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Once you’ve put your tail back together and Loctited, it’s time to attach it to the tail boom.

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Here is the Torque Tube and Bearing.  Here you want to make sure that the bearing is in the middle of the torque tube.  When it’s in the middle mark the torque tube, push the bearing back slighlty, and take a tooth pick or something with a fine tip.  Apply a very small amount of Thin CA GLue to the torque tube and push the bearing into the glue.  Be careful and make sure that you don’t get any glue inside of the bearing.  Let it cure for about an hour before moving forward to the next step.

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Once the glue has cured and the bearing is secure, lube the bearing with oil or grease, then get the rubber piece at the bottom of the photo.

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Slip the rubber piece over the bearing as shown.  This may take a few attempts, my bearing came unglued twice.  The grease or oil on the bearing helps slipping the rubber piece on.

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Now that the rubber piece is on, cover it in grease to help you install it into the tail boom.

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Setup the Tail Brace Set.

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Setup the Rudder Control Rod bottoming out the Ball Links.

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Once all of this is done, the tail is on hold.

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Moving on to the Swashplate Linkage Rods.

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It’s important that all 2 Linkage Rods are the same length and it will be easier adjusting them later if you have the same amount and same threads showing on all 3.  I bottomed mine out and backed up each ball link a half turn each to get the suggested 10.5mm distance from the bottom of each ball link.  There are 2 measurements.  10.5mm from ball link to ball link as shown below is the easiest for me to measure with a caliper.  If you don’t have one and are going to use a ruler to measure 19mm from the middle of the hole of the ball links.

Also notice the “A” on each ball link.  The “A” is only on one side of each ball link and needs to be on the opposite side of each other on the linkage rods.

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When you are done, all 3 should look the same with the “A” on opposite sides of each one.

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Break out the Main Gear.

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Install the Main Shaft with Swashplate and Rotor Head attached.

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Install the Main Gear, but just push the screw in without the nut right now since we are going to check for movement and add shims.  With the Main Gear on secure your helicopter, then push up and down on the rotor head.  If there is up and down movement, remove the main gear, main shaft, and add a shim.

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Add one shim (from the bottom of the main shaft), reinstall the main shaft, main gear, and check for up and down movement.  Keep adding a shim and testing until all movement is gone.  Once movement is removed spin the rotor head.  If it doesn’t move freely with no binding remove a shim until the binding is gone.

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Once the main shaft and main gear is done, attache the ESC to the battery holder.

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This shoes my wire routing.  Do not hook up the motor wires until the last step of setup.

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More wire routing.

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Attaching the Gpro FBL.  The photo below shows the connectors for your receivers.  I’m using a Spektrum DSMX Satellite.

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The Gpro itself is very clear on where all of the servo connectors go.  Ch1 is the back (Elevator Servo).  Ch2 is the left servo.  Ch3 is the servo on the right.  Rudder is the tail servo.  The ESC plugs into Batt/Aux Out.

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Once everything is connected you can mount the Satellite and Gpro.  There are more than a few ways to mount them.  Here I have the Satellite ready to mount inside the frame and the Gpro in the upper back behind the swashplate guide.  That is your choice to make and mess around with.  Some batteries have to be moved back an inch on the battery holder in order to get the canopy on and when installed in the helicopter the Satellite is in the way, so I am thinking about moving my Satellite Receiver to the outside of the helicopter.  Either way it’s your choice and you should experiment with it.  Once everything is mounted you will need to set up your radio and begin setting up the Gpro.  Below is my Spektrum DX8 file with settings.

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ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – DX8 SETTINGS

I have tons of DX8 setting screen shots and settings on this site, so this time I’m not going to take a picture of every screen.  If you want to learn about some of the DX8 settings or setting them you can go to my DX8 page and Blade 180 CFX for some details.  If you run into an issue that you would like explained with the DX8 with the Align Trex 450L Dominator feel free to email me and I will post the question with an answer here.  This time I’m making it easy and just posting my file.  The issue with that is my website provider thinks that a .SPM file is a security risk.  I’ve changed the extension to .doc to make it a word document.  All you have to do is download it and change it back to .SPM and import it into your DX8.  If you are still having an issue please email me and I’ll just send it to you as the .SPM file.

Align Trex 450L Dominator DX8 File:

11450LD_

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ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – GPRO SETUP

From the start I need to apologize.  I got the Align Trex 450L Dominator with the Gpro with the intention of using it and learning something new.  Somethings with the Gpro I found confusing and it was slowing me down, so I decided to go with what I know already (BeastX) since this is a big build.  I’ll blame it on comfort, but in the end I am glad that I went with BeastX.  I promise that when I get more comfortable with the Dominator I will revisit the Gpro and post a proper setup tutorial.  For now, here is the best video that I could find on the Gpro, just wish Jeff Fassbinder wasn’t using a Trex 700.

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ALIGN TREX 450L DOMINATOR – BEASTX SETTINGS

Here is a quick rundown on what I ended up with BeastX.

Setup Menu:

A – steady blue
B – steady blue
C – steady blue
D – flashing blue
E – blank
F – steady red
G – blank
H – steady red
I – steady purple
J – blank
K – blank
L – steady blue
M – steady red
N – steady red

Parameter Menu:

A – steady blue
B – flashing red
C – steady red
D – steady red
E – flashing red
F – steady purple
G – steady purple
H – steady purple

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