Blade Nano CP X Breakdown
Blade Nano CP X Review
Astroid Design’s Mild Brushless Kit Review
Rakon Frame Review
Rakon AR Guide Issue
Rakon Brushless Gear Mesh
Brushless Build Stock Frame
Astroid Tail Mount Mod
Lynx Heli Innovations
Nano CP X General Tips
Setting Zero Pitch
Nano CP X Crash Kit
Blade Nano CP X Parallel Charging Boards
Blade Nano CP X Microheli Advanced X Frame
Blade Nano CP X Lynx Accessories
Blade Nano CP X Fusuno Carbon Fiber 0.6MM Landing Gear
Blade Nano CP X Quick Stock Motor Swap
Blade Nano CP X Brushless Upgrade BLH3325
Blade Nano CP X Brushless Upgrade BLH3325 Modified
Blade Nano CP X – Warped Main Gear NEW!
Blade Nano CP X Review
I have had the Blade Nano CP X since release and have to say that this is an awesome heli!!! To me it seems to be the perfect real life simulator. It is very responsive, compact, and freakin’ durable. In my blade collection I have the Nano CPX, mCP X, and 130X. In all honesty this is my second favorite with the mCP X being my first.
I feel that I am just being sentimental there, but the mCP X was my first collective pitch heli. Anyway, I have nothing negative to say about this heli. Even my stock motor is still running, despite the complaints about them not lasting. YES, if you upgrade to brushless this heli takes on a hole new attitude.
I love it, it is a good purchase and if you are considering buying one; I say go for it! The closest comparison to the Nano is the mCP X. Although they are similar in many ways, I do not feel that they can be compared. This is due to the sheer size difference. I do not fly indoors, but if I were to start I would not consider anything other than the Nano.
It is way less susceptible to vibrations. The Nano is way more responsive. It is definitely way more durable. I have been using mine to learn inverted flight which I have not achieved yet. This means that I have crashed this heli into my house, fence, put it on my roof, and slammed into the ground repeatedly. All that being said I have had to repair it way less than any other heli that I own so far. In fact, I have even done less to this heli out of the box than the rest of my collection. The only weak spot that I have found so far are the skids. The rest is completely solid. The Nano CP X is without a doubt the best backyard heli that has been made so far in my opinion.
(Update 11 Feb 2013) I have been beating this heli up since its release and completely amazed that the only show stopping damage that I have had to repair so far is regluing the main shaft collar. The Blade Nano CP X is absolutely the perfect CP trainer.
You can download my DX8 file below for stock and brushless.
I was very lucky to get one of these of Astroid Design’s mild brushless kits ($64.00) when Dylan first started putting them together. Thank you Dylan! The guy’s name speaks for itself if you look around and do any reading. All that being said, this kit is top notch. It comes with everything that you need to make your Nano CP X brushless.
When I say the frame parts, I immediately understood the stiffener for the bottom of the frame. The top motor mount I did not understand until I had it installed and let the glue dry. I was amazed at how that little circle actually stiffened the top structure of the frame. The front part I was a sceptic expecially when I trimmed the frame down and barely had any left. Again, once the glue dried all my doubts were squashed. I am rambling there for a reason.
The rambling goes to show how much thought Dylan puts into his products. Take note that making these parts is not his day job and most of the time the popular items are out of stock. They go fast and for good reason! Let me just say that I have recently upgraded to the Rakon frame and not afraid to bash the hell out of it to give everyone a good review, because I still have an intact stock frame to go back to when I demolish the Rakon one. That is my way of saying that I will wait as long as needed for Astroid Design’s products. There is no doubt that if Dylan makes it, it is the best! Thank you for your hard work Dylan!
All I have to say right now is WOW!!! Thank you Lynx! If you read below, you will quickly learn about what really made me angry about the Rakon frame with the Microheli swashplate. Lynx saved Rakon’s butt in my world for sure. Seriously, everyone raves about them. This is my first real experience. I waited for Lynx to come out with the aft AR guide swashplate and received it last week. I installed the Lynx main shaft, rotor head, swashplate, and blade grips on my Nano CP X Mild Brushless.
I am no expert and never will know everything, but these products blew me away. This is going to be a long review and deserves as much. I am huge on the small things. With everything that I have purchased heli related since getting into this hobby always directs the application of loctite. I heeded that habit with Lynx and should not have. These guys are huge on the small things and that includes loctite. First let me say that I was not looking forward to taking all of those little balls off the swashplate and grips.
I am not going to point fingers, but these little balls were the easiest that I have dealt with so far. Really, there is nothing to dread here. Despite their size they grip the screw driver really well and there is no flexing at all. Now you know that you do not have to apply loctite, so the only time you will realize this is when you lose one. I doubt you will. They are the first to provide a kit of o-rings. I tested this too. I doubted that Lynx would be able to compare to www.oringsandmore.com. I was completely wrong there too. They provide the same exact stiffness as oringsandmore.
Lynx Heli Innovations definitely provides quality. I do not feel that I need to keep going at this point, but they are getting all the credit they deserve from me. Maybe some of this mod is about the bling. Whatever, it does look awesome. I wanted the metal blade grips on my brushless setup. I break the plastic grips a lot. I have yet to break a metal set from anyone. Absolutely, there is nothing negative about these parts. See for yourself.
The main shaft rests firmly on the bearing. It is also more sturdy than the stock main shaft.
Now to the juicy part. Rakon thank Lynx for saving your butt. The swash fits the Rakon Frame’s aft AR guide! All of you aftermarket folks need to pay attention. Sometimes we are forced to mix and match for crying out loud. Feast your eyes on this.
THANK YOU LYNX FOR HELPING ME MAKE THIS WORK!!!
Yes, all of the upgrades improved the flying with my brushless heli. Note I would not put all of this weight on my stocker.
Rakon CNC Aluminum Main Frame (without tail boom support)(nCPX452-S) $54.99
I am still in the beginning stages of blinging out this heli, but I did jump on the beta tester ban wagon on this frame. I figured it would be a good addition to my Mild BL Nano CPX. I am happy with my stock one too much to add the extra weight so this review is based on my Mild BL Nano.
There was one aspect of this frame that really pissed me off but I will get into that last. Excuse my language, I will curse when something really agitates me. It is a solid product overall from what I can tell. The frame was a bit difficult to install, but that is to be expected due to the size.
As you can see in the photo it comes with a lot of parts. The frame is flexible with everything you need to install this on your stock or brushless setup. The stock motor will fit without glue. There are two sets of servos screws for stock or extended to avoid a brushless motor.
The canopy mounts seem very solid too. Made out of thick plastic instead of thin carbon fiber. I was concerned about the small carbon shafts, but that does not seem to be an issue so far. More details below to follow the major points.
As you can see the motor mount was designed with Astroid Designs motor and original brushless kit in mind. I was glad, yet amused by this.
(Update 22 Jan 13): Make sure during installation that your motor pinion is flush with the motor’s shaft. If it is not the the pinion will be higher than the main gear. My pinion was only touching the upper half of the main gear.
I am most likely done with Rakon (see last paragraph). I do need to give them credit where credit is do. This is a solid frame and if you are a Rakon fan, go ahead and buy it. If you are a fan of another company such as Microheli or Lynx, I would wait for them to produce a frame. Rakon seems to be trying to limit use of other products with theirs. The pictures above are before my first flight with the frame. I went all out at the park with it and crashed a total of 10 times. Three of those crashes were hard ground crashes in fast forward flight with flipping as an end result. The frame sustained absolutely no damage and the carbon fiber rods held up. The canopy posts rock solid and not even bent. The tail mount however does not secure the 2mm tail very well.
Yes, this frame includes the aft AR guide. This is the one part that really pissed me off! I could not use the aft AR guide as you can see, because I have a Microheli swashplate. The AR guide for this frame is too far back, so the Microheli swash guide does not reach. I am not going to buy a second swashplate because a company wants to trap me into their products. I think this aspect is really stupid actually. Rakon is not the best producer of micro heli parts. I feel that when Lynx or Mircroheli makes a frame, the fact that Rakon is trying to trap people into using only Rakon parts they are going to lose business. I hope that do. If you are going to make parts for a heli that is so flexible, these companies should be flexible as well. It is just a matter of time before I ditch this frame because of this fact. It is my heli and I will put what I want on it. Those that try to trap me will not get my business, no matter how awesome their stuff becomes.
(Update 22 Jan 13): Last night I took the frame apart and tried installing the AR guide on the other side of the directed mounting which is on the very back. This did not work because the AR guide leans forward. I then tried attaching the Microheli guide for shits and giggles. It would have been a good fit, but the screw holes do not match up. I attempted to elongate them but gave up on that idea in fear that there would not be enough strength left after making the longer.
(Update 26 Jan 13): Thought you all might want to see my biggest gripe for this frame for yourself. Here are the pictures. Yes, my aft servo arm is bent, but she is at zero pitch and swash level. All my MCPX aft swash arms bend like that too. I have learned to just adjust to her to it. Here is the aft AR guide with a Mircroheli swashplate. I do not see a way around the issue.
(Update 30 Jan 13): At first I did not secure the servo extensions and the servos were difficult to put on. The second time I put my heli back together I CA glued them on and the servo install was way easier. Just make sure they are straight as an arrow before the glue dries.
(Update 03 Feb 13): Yesterday I had time to put the frame through some more crash testing. I have to say that I am impressed by it’s durability. I was practicing loop setup, collective management, and high speed forward flight; a lot of crashing. Ten crashes total and three of those crashes were hard, fast, and nose first with bouncing involved. The frame is still very intact and even the canopy mounts are still holding up. I do have to give the Rakon frame credit. It does seem to be as durable as the stock Nano CP X, so far.
(Update 11 Feb 13): The frame is still standing up to the beating that I am putting it through. I feel it is safe to say at this point that the Rakon frame is extremely durable. Now that Lynx fixed my aft AR guide issue, I am very happy with it. The only two annoying things left is the tail boom mount. It does not tighten down very well and I am constantly having to straighten the tail. Yesterday I realized that the forward landing gear mount is starting to move around. It pivots back far enough to push against the motor pinion. Keep an eye on it, took me a few minutes to notice it when it happened. The screw doesn’t seem to want to keep the mount in place now either.
(Update 17 Feb 12) The frame is still holding up. I have heard rumors about the frame being to stiff and may damage the board in a crash. I wrapped my brushless around a tree this weekend. The board was not damaged. The only damaged sustained was the tail part of the frame bent. I was impressed that the carbon fiber boom did not break. Only the aluminum part bent and I was able to bend it back. I have o-rings behind the board and behind the forward washers, so maybe that saved my board. I am not sure, but still. It was a really good crash and the frame is still in business and so is my 3 in1.
My blades separated from the heli today. I have had my brushless for months with stock parts and no issues. My new addition is the Lynx parts (blade grips) and I feel maybe the added wait is too much for Elmer’s glue to hold. I am going to use loctite this time when I put it back together.
Mild Brushless Motor Gear Mesh: (Rakon Frame)
Here is the best images that I could do with this frame and the gear mesh. I even tried to take them with a magnified lamp. This is again with the mild build from Astroid Designs. I am pretty sure this is as long as the motor shafts come. This is with the pinion flush with the shaft. It is still not completely even.
Blade Nano CP X Brushless Build (Stock Frame)
WARNING: This modification will void the warranty on your 3 in 1 board.
I completed this brushless build back when the Nano was new. I was one of the lucky few to get the Astroid Designs Mild Kit at the very beginning. The heli was brand new out of the box at the time of completing this build. There is a copious amount of knowledge out there on this subject. Go here to read more about flashing the ESC, or here for more brushless build info since there is actually two kits available. I am sure there will be more to come in the future. You can go here for the official Astroid Design’s instructions for the stock frame procedures as well.
4. You do not need to remove the blade grips for the brushless build. It is just good practice to check everything while you have your heli disassembled. These are the included tools to loosen and remove the feathering shaft.
20. With the tail removed this is a good time to install a solid carbon boom and change the fragile magnet wiring. I used yellow wire wrap in my build. You may also use CAT 5 computer ethernet cable as well.
21. Here I turned a mCP X tail motor mount from Astroid Designs into a Nano tail mount. I tried the mCP X carbon fin that comes with the tail mount kit, but it seemed to heavy. I then just cut off the attachment on the stock one. CA glued the tail mount plate to the stock fin. Drilled holes in the fin for the screws. I have to say that I like this set up a lot. Well until Dylan comes out with something for it that is.
This is the front view of the XP-3A. The blue arrows indicate where the motor wires connect. The red, white, and black circles show the flashing attach pads. The white arrow shows the signal wire connection. The red and black arrow are the power connections.
The back of the XP-3A. This side is actually labeled. A, B, and C are motor connections. + and – are power. The spot left of the + is the signal connection. Before permanently attaching any wires; fit the XP-3A to your 3 in 1 board. It does not matter which side the wires are soldered to. For example, the motor wires will be de and re-soldered more than the rest so it is a good idea to ensure they are on the top once the XP-3A is attached to the 3 in 1 board.
Here is the back of the 3 in 1. There are two places that you can connect the main signal wire too. My setup is connected this way. Make note that this also shows the tail connection point for a brushless tail motor.
Remember that when you connect your battery that you have to arm your ESC before the motor turns. Flip throttle hold on, you will hear a beep, then flip off throttle hold. Throttle up slowly and your motor will begin to spin. If it is spinning clockwise then you are done. If the motor is spinning counter clockwise, de-solder any of the 2 motor wires and swap them. It does not matter which 2 wires. The bottom and top ones are usually the 2 that I pick since you can do the soldering on them from an angle.
Common 1S Main Motors from Lowest to Highest Power (11 February 2013):
1. Oversky HP03SPE (Mild Build) $35.50
Shaft: 1 mm
2. Oversky HP03SPE (Wild Build) $35.50
Shaft: 1 mm
Nano CP X General Tips:
- When you remove and reinstall the feathering spindle tighten until the blade grips get notchy. Once the grips are notch back off the nut until the movement is smooth. You can replace the factory glue with Elmer’s Glue.
- You do not have to secure the main gear with glue if you change it, but I noticed after some flying that the main shaft will begin to round out. Again you can secure it with Elmer’s Glue. Elmer’s Glue does hold very well if you give it time to dry.
- The stock main shaft collar seems to shift after some hard crashes. I started re-enforcing the edges the collar right out of the package with CA glue and the collar has been holding up very well.
- 7. Landing gear -> They break very easily. When you get tired of glueing them back together or buying more; try a set of landing skids from Airtime RC Products. You will not regret it.
- O-ring mod -> The Nano CP X out of the box has a lot of slop in the rotor head and swashplate. What is slop you ask? Slop in this case means that the servo arms and rotor links are loose. They should only move up or down when attached to the swashplate or head. If you grip the top edges and getting side to side movement on their pivot balls, then you have slop which will lower your heli’s response to movement. In order to cure this, you have two choices. First choice is to take the extra rubber canopy grommets that came with your heli, cut them in half, install them on all the pivot balls. That choice is the less popular. There will still be slop present, but this will improve the initial slop. The second choice and most popular one is to order silicone o-rings from www.oringsandmore.com. This modification is an eventual necessity on the stock and bling parts.
- Rubber Orings (#001-70D) <— All swashplate balls, blade grips, and to absorb vibration for the 3 in 1 board. One behind the screw washers and one on the screw behind the 3 in 1 board.
Nano CP X Setting Zero Pitch
WARNING: Make sure Throttle Hold is on throughout this entire process.
The most important part about setting Zero Pitch is to make sure your swashplate is level. It will not hurt to check both every two weeks or so. You will lose both after crashing over time. Crashes will cause the servo arms to bend slightly and that in turn throws off a level swashplate and zero pitch. You need a level swash in order to get zero pitch which is explained next. A lot of people eye ball the swashplate on a heli this small, but here is where I like precision and feel that a level swashplate is extremely important. Some even use a zip tie. I broke down and just bought the Xtreme Productions swashplate leveler so that I could be accurate. A swashplate that is not level will cause a heli to hover left or right during take off instead of straight up and down. On top of that if you are drifting left or right on take off, then your heli will drift left or right while manuvering as well. Before I get into the steps there is one thing to stress. I had a friend struggling with his heli and it was due to him checking, turning everything off, and then making adjustments. Make sure your radio stays on and battery plugged into the helicopter during the adjustments. If you do not leave both on then you will not be able to ensure that your servos stay level during the adjustments. Leave everything on during adjustments.
Leveling Your Swashplate
I will be using the Spektrum DX8 for the tutorial. All radios have the menus that I describe, but you may have to do a little searching to find it on yours. Go into the Function List menu and find the Pitch Curve window.
The first thing you want to check in the Pitch Curve window is that you have a Linear Pitch Curve. You know you have a Linear Pitch Curve when you see that diagonal line in the box. The basic settings are shown below which are 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%.
Now that you have a Linear Pitch Curve turn on Throttle Hold for safety. With Throttle Hold on, push the throttle stick up until the line moves to the middle of the Linear Pitch Curve as shown below. The numbers under the box are very important and should show 50 –> 50. You will hear this referred to as “50 in and 50 out.” Why not just use the notch marks on the throttle stick? Those notches are not always 100% accurate; using the Pitch Curve window and going 50 –> 50 is the only way that you know for sure that you are really at half stick.
Note: You do not necessarily have to be at half stick to level your swashplate, but to ensure Zero Pitch your swashplate has to be exactly between the heli’s body and rotor head, so we are killing two birds with one stone by leveling the swashplate at half stick.
Now set your radio to the side, out-of-the-way so that you do not bump the throttle stick. Plug in your helicopter’s battery and allow it to initialize (blue light steady). The swashplate level sits on the swashplate arms. All the arms will be resting on the same place of the swashplate leveler when it is level. Pop off each link, one at a time and turn each until they meet the leveler. Clockwise is up. Counter clockwise is down. Your swashplate should look like the one below when you are finished.
Checking and Finishing Up Zero Pitch
Out of all of my helicopters, none of them had Zero Pitch out of the box. What is Zero Pitch? It is a fancy way of saying, “make sure your blades are even.” Pitch describes the main blades angle and Zero Pitch ensures that your main blades angle is flat at half stick. Zero Pitch has a huge purpose with any helicopter. This is a skill that you will take with you no matter how big the heli. Zero Pitch effects your radio’s throttle stick in Stunt mode. This really does not affect you much if you are using a Linear Throttle Curve in Normal Mode. Picture the throttle stick of your radio at the half way notch with the heli on the ground. The heli will be fully spooled up, but still on the ground if you have Zero Pitch. It is on the ground because your blades are rotated to push the heli down which is basically 50% negative pitch. Put your hand over your heli and you will feel the air flowing up, starting to make a little sense now? As soon as you begin to move the throttle stick past the half way notch the blades will rotate their angle and begin blowing air down creating lift; this would be your 50% positive pitch. I am sure that you have noticed by now that you do not bang the sticks to fly.
Most movements are small corrections and never really using the sticks full movements. This is very hard to explain. I am sure there are more complicated explanations out there, but I am really trying hard to keep it simple. In Stunt Mode you will most likely have a flat Throttle Curve such as 85%, 85%, 85%, 85%, and 85%. That means once you turn off Throttle Hold the helicopter will spool up and once it reaches 85% the motor will stay at 85% until Throttle Hold is turned back on. The throttle stick on the radio is actually controlling the main blade’s angle to increase or decrease altitude instead of the motor’s speed. With Zero Pitch your altitude will be level at half stick. Altitude will increase above half stick. It will decrease below half stick. Now if you leveled your swashplate according to the steps above you should have Zero Pitch. If your Main Blades are still off a little and not even, this means that your swashplate still a little too high or a little too low. If so adjust the links some more, but this time make sure that you turn all 3 links the same amount of turns otherwise the swashplate will not remain level.
NOTE: If you are coming from coaxial helicopters you most likely have the bad habit of hitting Throttle Hold, then pushing the throttle stick all the way down. Now that you have Zero Pitch set, when you crash just flip Throttle Hold only. If you push your throttle stick all the way down the main blades will come very close to the tail boom. In the middle of a crash the blades will flex and contact the tail boom with the throttle stick all the way down. All you have to do with the throttle stick is make sure that it is at half stick before you restart the helicopter.
If you had to move your stick down to get your grips even, then you need to move all links the same amount of turns Clockwise. If you had to move up, then adjust all links the same amount of turns Counter Clockwise until your grips are even.
Once you are even you have Zero Pitch. Congratulations your are done!!!!
Blade Nano CP X Crash Kit:
- Landing Skids (EFLH3004) $4.99
- Main Gear (BLH3306) $2.99
- Feathering Spindle (BLH3313) $5.99
- Main Motor (BLH3303) $11.99
Blade Nano CP X Parallel Charging Boards
There are two great options for you if you own an actual battery charger other than making your own charging adapter. Your first option is Hyperion six port charge adapter, that connects to your battery charger with bullet connectors and allows you to charge six Blade Nano CP X batteries quickly and accurately at one time. This is a very good charging adapter that is very durable. The only thing you need to know is that after some use you will need to secure the foam on the bottom of the board with glue. It will start to separate with time.
Now if you own both a Blade Nano CP X and a Blade mCP X, then there is a great option available to you. Ep Buddy has created this paraboard for both heli’s giving you the ability to charge 12 batteries total, at one time. That’s right, charge up to six Nano CP X and six mCP X batteries quickly and safely at one time. This paraboard is a 1S charging beast. I believe the image speaks for itself. I have two that I have been using non-stop for months and the board is extremely durable. You will need to re-enforce the connectors with glue thought. They do come loose after repeated usage.
Blade Nano CP X Microheli Advanced X Frame
I’ve had a lot of success with Microheli’s frames so far and decided to use it with my brushless setup. I will say right now that this was the most frustrating build that I have done so far. This frame gave me more frustration than even my Trex 250 build. I almost stopped half way to go back to my Rakon frame, but I stuck with it. Three days I got the heli together and all the kinks worked out. I had a lot of issues with this frame and details are laid out below.
1. In the box with the frame Microheli Advanced X Frame includes the carbon fiber canopy mounts and extra hardware.
2. Here is a side by side comparison with the Rakon frame (Left). I am glad that the Microheli frame is very similar to the mCP X frames. The thin carbon supports on the Rakon frame has always been a concern of mine.
3. The motor mount is very similar to Rakon’s. Slip your motor into this ring and the ring attaches to the frame.
4. To install the back servo the tail mount had to be removed. There wasn’t enough clearance to install the servo with the tail mount section.
There is barely any clearance for the servo gears. In fact it looked as if the gears were sitting on the bottom of the frame. Before going further I hooked up a battery to check operation and the servo is able to move. If that section gets even slightly bent it will certainly toast your servo, so keep an eye on that.
5. Installing the other two servos is where the nightmare began. I don’t know why Microheli expected people to use this frame on a stock setup of this size. I do feel the frame will be too heavy for a stock motor. The reason I say this is because the servo spacers didn’t provide enough room for my brushless motor. I wasn’t too worried because I decided to use the spacers from my Rakon frame. The Microheli frame has very small metal brackets for the screws that served to be a challenge since the kept falling out when I was trying to install the Rakon spacers. I was able to get them to stay long enough with a small amount of Elmer’s Glue, you still need to use finesse though. I felt like I was playing the game Operation. The Rakon spacers needed to be widened for the screws. I accomplished this with a file. I just kept taking little by little out of the inside until the screws fit. This part was really a pain since everything is so small. I tried gluing the spacers to the servo board and that didn’t work. In the end I just had to be gentle and be persistent with the process and eventually I got it all together. Additionally, the stock screws had to be replaced with some of my spare mCP X screws since the stock screws where to short for the Rakon spacers. Below I tried my best to illustrate how I used the Rakon spacers after it was all done. If you have a brushless motor I wish you luck. You will need longer screws and this Rakon Spacer Set.
6. As you can see I have the Lynx Swashplate installed. The anti-rotation guide was too small of course. I spent a lot of time slowly filing it evenly until the swashplate pin would fit. In the end we will see how the frame holds up in some crashes. Depending on how often I have to take this thing apart I may just go back to my Rakon frame sadly.
Blade Nano CP X Lynx Accessories
2. The Lynx DFC head seems very stable and I am very impressed.
3. I decided to see what the Blade Nano CP X Lynx Ultra Main Gear Hub was all about mainly out of curiosity. If it wears out I will go back to stock. At first it wasn’t clear how it installed. I had it upside down and just so you all know, it will only go onto your main shaft as shown below. So make sure that the part that has the screws is at the bottom of your heli and you will be good to go. Do not forget to locktite that screw too. I see it flying out of the gear very easily.
Blade Nano CP X Fusuno Carbon Fiber 0.6MM Landing Gear
I don’t usually go for any other landing gear than Airtime Skids, because I really haven’t had to replace any of mine yet. The Fusuno landing gear was a gift, so I decided to throw them together and see how they hold up. I couldn’t use them on my brushless setup since the batteries won’t fit, so I installed the landing gear on my stock Nano.
1. The package comes with everything seen here with no extra hardware.
2. Assembly is pretty straight forward, just don’t forget to locktite the four main screws. There are no instructions and it was unclear for me how to assemble the battery holder. A little trial and error for all of you. The screw head should be facing the back of the heli when completely assembled.
3. Here is the rest and on my stock heli. As I get some flights in will report on durability.
Update 13 July 2014: After a few flights I had a pretty hard crash and on of the carbon sides popped off of the landing gear. The carbon enlarged where the screws are inserted and can no longer be secured. Landing gear trashed.
Blade Nano CP X Quick Stock Motor Swap
My stock motor finally died on me and I figured that I would add it even though it is a simple step. I hope this helps anyone that is new to the Blade Nano CP X.
1. Disconnect your motor wire.
2. Disconnect all the servo connectors.
3. Look at your motor and find where the glue is and remove that servo, scrape off the glue. For me it is the left side and that is the easiest side to deal with. If this is your first motor swap then you most likely have a black rubbery glue substance keeping your motor in place. Here I have been experimenting using white out, which has worked very well.
4. Next remove your landing gear and use a small screw driver to push the stock motor up and out of the frame.
5. Notice that the stock replacement motor connector is not marked green as the one your are replacing. That is important, because you have to plug it in a certain direction. The black wire is on the green side on mine, so I just painted my plug with white out to mark it.
6. Now just do everything you just did in reverse and bam, easy motor swap. Just make sure that you re-glue the motor to keep if from moving around in the frame. Also glue the motor connector back in place or it will fall out in crashes. Elmore’s Glue works really well and so does White Out.
Blade Nano CP X Brushless Upgrade BLH3325
My Nano CP X’s are one of my most flown heli’s, because they are perfect for my backyard when I am unable to get out in the open. This page is also my most viewed page so far and I decided to drop $50.00 on the Blade Nano CP X Brushless Upgrade due to my curiosity and to show all of you what this upgrade is all about. I love my stock Nano CP X and my mild setup, so I bought my third Nano for this walk through. It wasn’t a bad decision either, because I really like this one more in the backyard more than my mild setup up which I fly more at the park. Over all I really like this Brushless Upgrade. It was meant to be plug and play which is an awesome thing if you don’t want to do any soldering. The fact that it is plug and play does offer some minor issues and I will cover the solutions that I came up with. If you are on the fence about this upgrade, just go for it. It is worth it, especially if you aren’t looking for something too crazy. This upgrade is a step below the Mild Brushless Kit from Astroid Designs.
The package contains the upgrade and installation manual.
Here is brushless motor next to the stock motor for comparison.
On the left is the stock motor. The middle is the brushless motor. On the right is the tail motor for the Blade mCP X BL for comparison.
Here is the motor installed in the stock frame. I am curious to see how long the frame will last with this setup. After I break it, (it’s only a matter of time) I will be trying it out in the Rakon and Microheli frames.
The motor connector is very short, so make sure that you install the motor with the connector forward.
You will need some two sided tape (NOT INCLUDED) to attach the ESC. The problem here is having to mount it vertical because of the motor connector and as you can see, the ESC blocks the main board screws. The orange wire is the signal connector that connects to the regular motor connector. Additionally, there is a power connector that connects to the stock connector. I set this up as is at first to demonstrate how it is supposed to be connected out of the package. Then I took the shrink wrap off to show everyone what it looks like on the inside, then I modified it slightly to eliminate some of the wiring. More details on that below.
This photo shows the motor connected. It is short and there is no room to play around. The connector pins are very thin and fragile and there is a risk of bending them when connecting the motor.
This shows the signal wire connected to the stock motor connector.
This is how you connect the power wire and as you can see, there is a lot of wiring now. On top of that the battery connector on the upgrade is a little too short. Connecting to the sock battery was very tight. The Hyperion 240 mAh battery was easier to connect and is my preferred battery of the stock battery. It will fly with the stock battery, but you can tell the upgrade wants more power. Mine would vibrate like crazy at the beginning of the battery and would straighten out toward the end of the battery, so go with the Hyperion 240 mAh or higher battery.
My solution for the power wiring bundle was to route it to the right side of the heli, push it behind the main board and pull the battery connector out of the left side of the heli.
The Xtreme canopy will not fit because of all of the wires in front. It just won’t go far enough back to for the canopy grommets to reach the canopy arms on the frame.
I had to settle for the stock canopy and you do have to gently force it on.
Some end notes. My setup consists of:
- Stock Frame
- Lynx solid carbon fiber tail boom
- Stock tail motor
- Lynx swashplate
- Lynx DFC Head
- Lynx solid carbon main shaft
- Xtreme landing gear (very sturdy setup, but I had to ditch it because it does not have a battery holder to fit the Hyperion 240 mAh battery. Back to Airtime skids I go.
I was able to hover for a full 4 minutes on the stock battery (you can tell there is not enough juice) and 5 minutes with the Hyperion 240 mAh (the perfect battery for this setup). If you are looking for more power, but don’t want to go for too much this setup is a good choice. It is slightly lower power than the Astroid Designs Mild Kit. This was way easier to fly in my backyard than the Mild Kit is. Basically I fly my stock Nano indoors, this brushless setup in my backyard, and my Mild Nano at the park.
Blade Nano CP X Brushless Upgrade BLH3325 Modified
Out of the package there isn’t anything so bad that you can’t deal with. I just simply wanted to get rid of all the battery wiring. Below is what the ESC looks like on the inside and my mod to get rid of all of the wiring.
Here is the front view.
Here is the back view.
The wires are not very secure, so after cutting off the stock battery connector, I put a dab of Elmer’s Glue on the signal wire to secure it better. I will not be putting more heat shrink on it. I am going to attach it as is.
I soldered some higher gauge wires for the power connection. I soldered them to the front of the ESC instead of the back. Remember that the ground (black wire) attaches to the corner connection.
Carefully solder the power wiring to the main board as shown below. You will need some slack in the wires so make sure they are long to start with. In order to remove the main board you will have to pry the ESC out to get to the screws, so make sure you have enough wire in order to avoid ripping up your soldering job later in the future.
That is all there is too it. You can cut the connector off of the signal wire (Orange) and solder that to the main board as shown in the other BL Mods above. I opted not to do that at this time, I just don’t see that it makes that much of a difference. Enjoy and happy flying.
Blade Nano CP X – Warped Main Gear
When the Blade Nano CP X was first introduced, there were defective main gears being sold that were warped. I added main gears to my crash kit when I bought mine and still have some defective gears. Horizon Hobby has fixed the issue, but I am pretty sure there maybe more out there hiding from the old batch. The reason I wanted to mention this, at first glimpse the Nano CP X will seem as if it is having an electrical problem when it is not when one of these bad main gears is installed. Below is two videos, the first video shows how the heli acts with a warped main gear and the second video is immediately after I changed out my defective main gear.
Blade Nano CP X With A Warped Main Gear
Blade Nano CP X Immediately After Changing Warped Main Gear