Align Trex 150 DFC

Align Trex 150 DFC Breakdown

This is the first time that I am offering this.  If you are having issues and would rather fly than fix.  You can email me at diysoup@gmail.com (Subject:  Build Help) with the build you wish to have.  I will be happy to help you create the build you dream of.  You can even mail it to me to mod for you if need be.

ALIGN TREX 150 DFC – FLASHING WITH BLHELI

Align Trex 150 DFC Review
Align Trex 150 DFC – What Is In The Box
Align Trex 150 DFC Battery Charger
Align Trex 150 DFC Batteries
Align Trex 150 DFC Frame And Lynx Frame Stiffener
Align Trex 150 DFC With A Spektrum Satellite Receiver
Align Trex 150 DFC – DX8 Radio Setup
Align Trex 150 DFC – DX8 Radio Binding
Align Trex 150 DFC Fiberglass Canopy
Align Trex 150 DFC – New Version (May 2014)
Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Motor Mount Swap
Align Trex 150 DFC O-Ring Mod – MUST DO MOD
Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Carbon Main Shaft Installation – (UPDATED 14 JUNE 2014)
Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Main Frame
Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Ultralight Co-Polymer Landing Skid

Align Trex 150 DFC – Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Swashplate
Align Trex 150 DFC – Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Tail Blades (42mm and 47mm)
Align Trex 150 and 250 Blade Balancer (UPDATED 13 JUNE 2014)
Align Trex 150 DFC Servo Saver Mod(UPDATED 20 JULY 2014)
Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch
Align Trex 150 DFC Rudder Adjustment
Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Servo Metal Gears NEW
Align Trex 150 DFC Videos

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Review     align trex 150 (1)

I am going to say right off the bat that I love the Align Trex 150 DFC.  There is quite a bit to this jewel, but to me this baby was worth every penny.  I am having as much fun with this heli as I did when I got my first Blade mCP X.  There are a lot of complaints out there about the frame and the swashplate upgrade and even though I get what everyone is saying, do not let that pull you off the fence with this heli.  The Align Trex 150 DFC is powerful, well built, and a blast to fly.  As with every helicopter that I currently own there is something that I don’t like about them in one way or another.  It is the same with this one, but I will hit on everything in detail and hopefully get you in the air.

With the Align Trex 150 DFC, you are stuck with Align’s battery setup which kind of sucks, but it just a small issue.  I did look the helicopter over and I don’t see a way to bypass the battery issue.  I thought about changing out the connector on the heli, but chickened out in fear of breaking the electronics.  Yes, this helicopter is stacked electronics wise.  The arrangement for everything is top notch as well.  Everything you need to fly this bad boy will actually fit without a lot of effort actually, even if you have to use a satellite receiver.  I am a bit rusty because I have been away from flying for 9 months and this heli probably wasn’t the best choice to fly right now.  It is very squirrely in the air and I did crash a few times.  Slammed into my house.  Slammed into my fence.

Picked this heli up, dusted it off, and back in the air it went.  The Align Trex 150 DFC is very touch and can take a beating.  I worried about the landing gear, but it seems to be top notch.  If they are easy to break, then I should have broken one today.  This heli does require some setup, but it isn’t that much trouble.  I really like that it has three flight modes novice, average, and advanced.  It also has a gain setting switch.  Over all this heli is very solid and I am very glad that I purchased it.  Of course there were some minor issues and I will cover each in more detail below.  The Align Trex 150 DFC is definitely going to become one of my common fliers.  I LOVE THIS HELI!!!!

After a couple of weeks with this heli, I have to say that I am thoroughly impressed.  The more I fly it, the more I love it.  I’ve decided to leave the battery connector the way it is.  The current configuration isn’t bad and I don’t want to spend time making batteries to fly.  It just seems unnecessary to me.  I have gotten intimate with this heli and have completed some mods.  This is definitely one of those heli’s that I will want to fly when I go flying and can’t risk not having one when I go because it is broken and on my bench.  I broke down and bought a second one for a backup.  Yes, I like it that much.  Also that has given me some room to test out some things.  Align has fixed a lot of issues and my newer one had all of the upgraded parts, including the frame, plus they throw in the Align Trex 150 Metal Tail Motor Holder.  I’ve solved the battery falling out issue and completed a few mods.  Check out all that is labeled as new.

The more I fly the Align Trex 150 DFC, the more I fall in love with it.  This helicopter is as much fun to tinker with as it is to fly.  It really has taught me so much so far.  I’ve upgraded and modified so many rc helicopters over the past two years and the Trex 150 has taught me quite a bit.  It has motivated to pull my Align Trex 250 back off the shelf since I understand more about rotary servos and the electronics now, so expect some updates on my Align Trex 250 DFC page.  Some of the modifications that I completed on my other helicopters, I never really felt a difference in flight.  With the Trex 150 I feel every modification that I do to it and that is also teaching me so much!!  I can’t thank Align enough for creating this awesome rc helicopter.  I’m having so much fun with it that I am going to have to flash one with BLHELI and see what this little fire cracker can really do and I will keep you all posted every step of the way.  I do have HP06 and HP08 motors on the way as I type this.

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Align Trex 150 DFC – What Is In The Box

The box is very small as you can see.  That is a standard paper towel sheet.

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The helicopter comes fully assembled and was flown before packaging to make sure all works.

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Here is everything laid out.  My only disappointment here is the instruction manual or lack there of.  There is pretty much no details in the instruction manual at all.  Also notice that there is no battery charger.

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1. Instruction Manual. 2. Fully Assembled Align Trex 150 DFC. 3. Set of High Performance Blades. 4. One 250 mAh Battery. 5. Blade Tape. 6. Bag of Spare Parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The spare parts bag contains tools, two sided tape, zip ties, satellite cable, and bind plug.

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Align Trex 150 DFC Battery Charger

The Align Trex 150 DFC sadly and surprisingly does not come with a battery charger.  There is however a battery charger available for purchase separately for $22.99.

The Align CH-150 Balance Charger

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Here it is out of the box and yes you see it right.  There is no wall adapter so if you aren’t setup with a power supply, then you are screwed.  I wasted my money on this since I learned about the lack of a battery charger and ordered this with my heli.  I ended up going with some aftermarket charging cables that I could use with my Hyperion chargers.

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Here are the adapters that I decided to go with to charge my batteries and they are working out very well.  Not to mention you can charge 6 batteries at a time with them.

Parallel (6x) JST-XH Charge & Balance Cable for T-Rex 150 – $7.99

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Align Trex 150 DFC Batteries

When I saw the battery charger, I did begin to mess with using a different connector to make things easier for me until I noticed that the board on the landing gear where the battery connector is attached is some sort of voltage regulator.  I chickened out shortly after changing a connector on one of my batteries.  My original theory was to clip off the stock connector and solder a deans connector to the pins on the voltage regulator board (shown in the photo below).  In theory it should work, I just chickened out when I saw how much the electronics cost.  For now I am holding off, but it is eating away at my brain and I am curious to see what will happen.  If I do get the balls and decide to take one for the team, I will be sure to let you all know.  Anyway, below is how you can change out the connector on the battery if you have a need to do it to add an adapter, which I didn’t want to do since there isn’t much room to play with.

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1.  With a thin tool slowly push the plastic cover off of the battery.

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BEFORE WE GO ANY FURTHER A LITTLE BATTERY SAFETY.

First I am going to show you how not to do it.  Sure, you can go ahead and cut both wires and have at it, but your battery does have a charge.  Therefore if you touch the red and black wires together anytime during the process it will shock you.  If you hold them together long enough your battery can explode and cause a fire, so do not do it as shown in the following picture.  Do each wire one at a time.


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2.  After a small struggle getting the plastic off, you will be able to pull the stock connector forward to get to the wires.  I was surprised to see that there is actually enough wire to work with.  Remember to do one wire at a time, especially since they are so short.

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3.  Solder each wire and don’t forget your heat shrink.

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4.  Reattach the plastic with some CA Glue and you are done.  Be sure to plan out your setup before changing connectors.  If you are making an adapter the black and red wires need to be attached to opposite pins than the battery.

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I have a little more to offer on batteries.  I was able to compare the stock battery with the Turnigy Nano-Tech 330 mAh batteries.  There is a considerable size difference and I did run into a small issue with the Nano-Techs.  Below is the gauge:

Here are both batteries side by side for a size comparison.  The height is the same.

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Flight times:

Align 250 mAh:

Hovering – 5-6 minutes (6 will be pushing LVC)
Extreme Flying – 4-5 minutes (5 will be pushing LVC)

Turnigy Nano-Tech 330 mAh:

Hovering – 7-8 minutes (8 will be pushing LVC)Extreme Flying – 6-7 minutes (7 will be pushing LVC)

Turnigy Nano-Tech Issue:

The stock battery does fly off the connector often during a crash which I saw as a fail safe.  The Nano-Techs are a different story.  I flew two different ones during testing and the first one would come out during take off every once in a while.  With the second battery, I didn’t even bet into the air.  The battery just wouldn’t stay on the connector.  This is a major issue, but I believe I found a simple solution.  At first my idea was to just use battery velcro.  I took a moment looking the landing gear over and deciding how the placement should be.  I decided to put velcro just behind the connector and I pushed the battery in place to test how my room there is and that alone seemed to fix it without putting velcro on the battery too.  I still need to test it in flight but there is now a tight fit.  Here is the photo.

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Update 20 April 2014:

The above placement for the velcro did work, but the velcro made it quite difficult to line the battery up with the connector.  I moved the velcro to the back of the landing gear and that works fine for the stock batteries.  I still had an issue with the same Nano-Tech battery from my story above.  The solution for the Nano-Techs was to add a small amount of velcro to the back of the battery.  This solution was flown and tested and works like a champ.  Here are the pictures of how I did it.  Again you do not need the velcro on the stock batteries.  They work fine with just the velcro on the landing gear.

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This option began annoying me because there still seems to be some of my batteries that still fall out no matter what.  I tried some different solutions and found one that has worked flawlessly so far.  I took some small zip tie and placed it as shown below.  The batteries to need to be installed at an angle, then pressed into place.  This works like a champ though.  I have had no issues with my batteries falling out during flight with this mod.  Just be careful and check for clearance between the zip tie and main gear when you put the skid back on your heli.  If you place the zip tie as shown you will be good to go.  The area where you cut off the access plastic is fairly close to the main gear so check for clearance before flying.  If you zip it tight enough the zip tie does not move during flight.

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Align Trex 150 DFC Frame And Lynx Frame Stiffener

I learned about this issue before I even bought the heli, but didn’t let it sway me.  I’m glad that I didn’t.  Anyway, here is my take on it.  Yes, it sucks but I am sure Align planned it like this.  The Trex 150 DFC is already an expensive helicopter and I am sure that they include the easy to break frame and plastic swashplate in order to drive down the cost to make the helicopter somewhat affordable.  I feel their solution should be to sell two combos, one with the flimsy frame and one with the upgrade.  Anyway, I got the upgrade ($21.99) and installed it so that I could bring you as much information about it as I could.  I liked how they sell you the swashplate and include the frame for free.  You can go here for the stand alone frame ($11.99).  The one thing that really annoyed me about the frame was realizing that I would have to de-solder the tail motor connector to remove it from the frame.  Then when I rent to solder it back together in the end the connector had enough and melted beyond use.  Thank god I had replacements in my stash of parts.  The stock motor connectors are cheap, so make sure you get some better replacements before soldering on them.  I am sure that I don’t need to go over how much better the upgrade frame is, because it is way better.  I also added the Lynx Frame Stiffener ($4.95) for good measure and it is a good addition as I am sure that Astroid Designs Stiffener ($8.00) is as well.  I’ve already pointed out the tail motor issue and here is the rest of the points when changing out the frame.

Side by side there isn’t much to say, but to the touch you can feel a huge strength difference.

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1.  Once you pull off the electronics you will need to remove all the foam left over from the attaching tape.  On the stock plate that holds the electronics you will have to remove the foam until you find the two small phillips screws that attach the plate to the frame.  They are very small and hard to see, but they are there as you can see below.  You will need to move this plate to the upgrade frame.

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2.  If you are going to use a frame stiffener it is the same process, but the major difference you can see in the photo.  I am glad I got the stiffener just because it was easier go handle and install because of it’s size.

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3.  The other part of the Lynx Frame Stiffener installed.  The main motor screws secures it to the frame.

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4.  Additionally, you have to move the swashplate guide as well.

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5.  Here is the swashplate comparison.  One is plastic and one is not, need I say more?

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6.  Wire placement is a pain when putting it all back together.  I carefully ran most of the wires between the frame and aileron servo.  It is a tight fit but it works.

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7.  My last note is about the landing gear.  The retainers don’t work very well keeping the helicopter straight during take off, so I added orings to mine and they work like a champ.

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SWASHPLATE NOTE:  This is a good example of how no one is perfect and how good people on www.helifreak.com step in to help you out.  A couple of brothers (vtown nick and FliHi) on helifreak were reading this page and noticed that my swashplate in the above pictures and some below is installed wrong.  I wasn’t paying close attention, but must have noticed it subconsciously because both of mine are installed right now.  Anyway, the elevator leg on the plastic and metal swashplates are round, when the other 2 legs are not.  Another way to make sure is to ensure that the Align logo on the swashplate is forward like in the photo below…DOH!!!  Thank you vtown nick and FliHi for the catch.

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Align Trex 150 DFC With A Spektrum Satellite Receiver

If you are not using a Futaba  Radio, you will need a satellite receiver.  I am using a Spektrum DX8 radio and therefore going to go with a Spektrum DSMX Satellite Receiver ($34.99).

1.  Here is the DSMX Receiver.

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2.  When I swapped the frame I decided to stay away from the standard foam tape that comes with the helicopter.  I used Novac Mounting Tape ($5.99) which is clear, no foam mess, strong, and very thin making a little more room for everything.   The satellite placement is a no brainer and needs to be attached on the bottom of the mounting plate under the electronics with the connecter facing forward.  You can shorten the satellite connector that comes with the receiver or you can use the included connector that came with the helicopter.  I used the Align connector as shown in the photos below.

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Align Trex 150 DFC – DX8 Radio Setup

There is quite a bit to radio setup and binding with this helicopter.  I have received some criticism and that is okay.  Radio settings are completely based on your experience and instincts.  Like I always say before revealing my settings, these settings are basic and will get you in the air.  Fine tune them as needed.  As a matter of fact these settings are based on Align’s recommendations.  I will include the official Align setup video at the bottom of this post, just so you have all the information in the same place.  I prefer pictures in this case so you don’t have to keep pausing and backing up a video.  I will touch on all of the important points along the way.

You can go here to download my setup file or follow the steps below to manually setup up your radio.

Align Trex 150 DFC – DX8

1.  Go ahead and setup your Model Type and Name as normal, then scroll down to Swash Type.

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2.  The setting should already be 1 SERVO NORMAL and that is what your Swash Type needs to be set to.

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3.  After setting your Swash Type, scroll down to Frame Rate.  If you are using a Spektrum DSM2 Satellite then set your frame rate should be set to the following.

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4.  If you are using a Spektrum DSMX Satellite use this setting.

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5.  Those are the only settings that you need to worry about in the System Setup menu.  Go ahead and boot up your radio and go to the Function List menu.  Go into Servo Setup and ensure all of your settings match the following photos.

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6.  Servo Travel settings.

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Pitch here should be 70% and 70%, but for some reason I am only able to change one setting.  Not sure if that is a software glitch or not.  If you can set both to 70% do so.  Alright I figured this out with some help and in order to change the second pitch setting you have to move the throttle stick all the way up.

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I feel like an idiot, but that is how you set both settings on all of the options by moving the appropriate stick.

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7.  Servo Reverse settings.

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8.  After reversing your servos, scroll on down to D/R and Expo.

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9.  These D/R and Expo settings will get you started and in the air and doing some 3D flying.  Again if you are pro, then you can tailor them as needed.  Matter of fact I prefer less expo, but on your first couple of flights I would go with these to get used to the helicopter.

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10.  Throttle Curve settings.  Again these will get you in the air and flying 3D.  Tailor to your needs.

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11.  Pitch Curve settings.

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12.  Gyro settings.  Set it up for FM (Flight Mode).  These will not change that much, but you may want to lower or raise them a little for your preferences.

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13.  After a lot of flying I have removed all Expo settings.

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC – DX8 Radio Binding

DX8 binding is quite a ritual.  It seems like a lot at first, but once you look through this and your gear a few times you will see that it is not a big deal.

1.  First of all charge a battery.  Below shows which way the battery is inserted.  Make sure the battery label is facing the bottom of your helicopter.

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2.  Next you will need the included bind plug that is in the bag of goodies that came with the heli.

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3.  The empty spot shown here is where your bind plug goes.  Right next to the servo connectors.

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4.  Next is where the ritual comes into play.  If you are using a Spektrum DSM2 Satellite then just plug in the battery and then turn on your radio with the Bind button pressed until you see the screen below.

If you are using a Spektrum DSMX Satellite, then you will need to press the Set button (the small black circular button) on the electronics next to the Gain setting switch.  Push the setup button, plug in the battery and once the heli comes on let go of the Set button.  Turn on your radio with the Bind button pressed until you see the screen below.

NOTE:  ONCE YOU SEE THE SCREEN BELOW YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO REMOVE THE BIND PLUG.  LET GO OF THE RADIO’S BIND BUTTON, THEN REMOVE THE BIND PLUG.

If you are using DSM2 you will see DSM2 in the screen if you setup your radio up for DSMX you should see DSMX in this screen.  If it all doesn’t match rebind.

The screen shown did not match my setup and I had to rebind twice.  I am using it as an example since I was setup for DSMX.  If DSM2, 22ms should be shown.  You have to pay attention at this point, but when you see all of this you will need to release the radio’s bind button and remove the heli’s bind plug.  Just so you know, you will be able to fly if it binds wrong and you may not feel a difference, but to me the controls were a little sluggish.  A couple of more ways to check this is looking at your radios home screen.  DSMX and DSM2 is shown in the top right corner at all times.  Make sure that matches.  You can also tell by looking at your Satellite.  If the light is blinking then it is not bound correctly.  The light on the satellite should be solid and not blinking.

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5.  When you are bound both lights on your heli will go solid green as shown.  Again double check all the signs that I mentioned above to make sure that it bound correctly.

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6.  As promised here is the official Align setup video for Futaba and the Spektrum DX8

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC Fiberglass Canopy

I was shopping for something else and accidentally came across the Align Trex 150 DFC Fiberglass Canopy ($11.99) and said to myself, “hell yeah!”  You can’t go wrong with fiberglass canopies.  I bought it and I am very impressed with it.  The plastic stock canopy was pretty much done after five crashes.  Mine was cracked and distorted to the point that it was difficult to keep the bottom canopy posts secured.  It was coming loose and causing vibrations.  By the way, It is easy to tell when this happens, because it makes a very loud rumbling noise in flight.  Anyway, here is my beaten down stock canopy.  This is after five decent crashes.

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (4)

Cracked

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (5)

Dented and Distorted

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (6)

Dented and Paint Scratched

 

I’m not complaining, since this kind of damage is to be expected.  Just showing you what it can look like very quickly and if you are on the fence about getting the fiberglass canopy, do it.  It is a good upgrade.

Side by side comparison.  The top is the stock canopy and the bottom is the fiberglass canopy.  There is a slight size difference, the fiberglass canopy is a little bigger.  You can’t really see it in the picture, but the boxes that the canopies come shipped in reveals the size different.

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top is the stock and the bottom is the fiberglass.

IMG_2079

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This canopy went through seven crashes right before I took this picture and it is still in great shape as you can see.  It also really compliments the green landing gear.

Align Trex 150 DFC Canopy (7)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC – New Version (May 2014)

I’ve had time to get a bit more intimate with this heli and I have to say that it is one of my new favorites.  The more I fly it, the more I love it.  This is one of those heli’s that I will want to fly when I go flying and can’t risk not having one to fly because it is broken and on my bench, so I broke down and bought a backup.  Also having a backup has allowed me to try out some different items and mods.  I want to point out that Align has fixed most of this heli’s original issues and all upgrades are available in the newer packages.  I got mine from the here Align Trex 150 DFC New Version.  It does include the upgraded frame, plastic swashplate and they include the metal motor mount for free.  Very Impressive!!!

 

I want to be clear that they do not include the metal swashplate, but it is the upgraded plastic swashplate.

Align Trex 150 DFC New Version (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the included free metal tail motor mount.

Align Trex 150 DFC New Version (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the Align Metal Motor Mount next to the Lynx Light Weight Motor Mount.  The Align is front and Lynx is the one in the back.  Another thing that impressed me about the mount is that Align includes an attachment that allows you to install the mount without the fin if you prefer to fly finless.

IMG_2273

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Motor Mount Swap

I don’t like the way the tail motor connector has to be taken a part then all the pins fished through everything one at a time in order to do a simple swap.  I am running a test on the wiring though.  With this heli I have been trying to stick with what I’ve learned and applying that instead of watching video after video.  That being the case I did mess my connector up on my first heli, because I didn’t realize that the connector comes a part.  If you are going to resolder the connector, make sure that you take the pins off of the plastic holder.  The plastic holder does not withstand heat from a solder iron at all and pretty much melts instantly.  Since I wrecked my first one, I decided to rewire the tail motor with wire wrap as an experiment.  I also wrapped the new wire around the tail boom, used heat shrink to keep the wires in place, and to protect them.  I skipped routing it through the space on the frame and just pushed the wire behind the aileron servo and plugged it in which does make maintenance so much faster.  My second heli I have decided to leave it stock for now, so I could do a walk through on how that actually works.  The following tutorial with show you what you need to know to swap the tail boom, tail motor, and tail motor mount.

 

First you want to disconnect the tail motor connector.  Please take note of the different colors.  When you put the connector back together you will need to make sure that you put it back together the same way, otherwise your heli will spin like crazy when you try to take off.  Use the main motor connector as a reference.  Mine were configured the same way, so just match the colors based on that.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You will need to clamp the plastic holder with some pliers and gently push down on the pins.  Eventually the pins will come out of the connector.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next remove the tail boom screw and pull the tail boom off the frame.  You will need to fish each pin through the frame using tweezers, one at a time.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You will need to stagger the pins to get them through the tail boom itself.  That means line them up one behind the other, then feed them inside, and gently pull the wires on the other end.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (5)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When you remove the screws from the stock tail motor mount make sure you notice there is a difference.  The screw with more defined threads is the tail boom screw.  The screw with find threads is the motor screw.  For the metal mount you will need the motor screw and you can just install the other screw back in the stock mount for later.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (4)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is what is in the metal motor mount package.  It is ready to go as is with the fin installed.  If you fly finless then use the small plastic plate on the right.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (6)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ensure you align the holes on the motor and motor mount before installing the screw using locktite.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (7)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now the fun part, getting the wiring back into the tail boom.  You need to push each pin inside one at a time.  Once I got all the pins inside I used a smaller carbon rod to push them all the way through.  This may take some patience, but it does work and they will fit.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (9)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (10)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once you get the wiring back in the boom, re-route it all and reconnect the connector and you are in business.

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (11)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (12)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Tail Swap (13)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC O-Ring Mod – MUST DO MOD

I new right away that this heli needed the O-ring mod as soon as I pulled if a part the first time.  Every heli that I have purchased so far has needed it, so this is nothing new.  I did fly it quite a bit without the mod to see how it feels and I will say right now.  If there is one modification that you make to this heli, this is the mod that is a must.  This mod removes all of the slop that is present in the servo arms, swashplate, and head; that in turn will give you increased control of this heli in flight.  Below is what you need and where you need to put them.  I am using o-rings from www.oringsandmore.com and the part number is 002 Silicone.

Align Trex 150 Oring Mod (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 Oring Mod (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Carbon Main Shaft Installation

I decided to go with a carbon main shaft since I bent one of the stock ones the first week that I had this heli.  I went with the carbon main shaft from Lynx and I feel this one is going to last me quite a while.  I wanted to throw a couple of pictures up in case installation is not very clear.  It is a simple swap.

 

Leave the top collar on and remove the bottom.  Shim it as needed during installation.

Align Trex 150 DFC Lynx Carbon Main Shaft (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once it is all back together, install the bottom collar as shown and you are done.  If you want to make your own, it seems that the original Blade mCP X main shaft collars will fit.  That will be one of my next projects.

Align Trex 150 DFC Lynx Carbon Main Shaft (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update 14 June 2014:

After a few flights and crashes with my control heli flying the stock main shaft, I have bent 2 stock main shafts and the original Lynx Carbon Main Shaft is still rocking.  With that being said, I am going to have to add this upgrade to a must do mod!!!  After my second bent stock main shaft in minor crashes I have since added a Lynx carbon main shaft to my control heli as well.

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Main Frame

I’ve been waiting for Lynx to make a main frame for something and was very excited to try out the Align Trex 150 DFC Lynx Main Frame ($39.65).  I also like the color options that Lynx offers and decided to go with the black frame.   This frame is built very sturdy and there are a lot of factors to this frame that will make maintenance a hell of a lot  easier.  There are more positives than negatives for this frame and I am very glad to be able to share them all with you.  Of course nothing in life is perfect and there are some downsides to this frame, but over all I am very happy with it and the way that Lynx listened to all of our complaining about the Align Trex 150 DFC Stock Frame.  I like this frame and it will be a good investment if you are going to flash your helicopter with BLHELI and upgrade the motor.  I will be testing a HP06 and HP08 in mine shortly and will post my results.  If you are going to stick with the stock motor then I would just stay with the stock main frame.  While I was buying the frame I decided to also try the Lynx Swashplate, Lynx Landing Gear, and both Lynx Tail Rotors, so keep reading for my thoughts on those.  Here is the Lynx Innovations – Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame Manual.

1.  The frame itself is very straight forward and comes pre-built with loctite already on all of the screws.  Additionally, the frame comes with a thin layer of adhesive for the main electronics.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2.  You will need two sided tape to attach your satellite if you are using one though.  I use the stuff from Novac ($6.39 for 10 pieces) which is thin, doesn’t create a foamy mess on the parts, and works very very well.  In fact, I’ve had so much success with Novac’s tape that I probably won’t be using anything else unless some reason arises that prevents me from using it.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  One of the good features of the frame is that Lynx gave us a bigger opening to route all of the servo cables.  Now we don’t need tweezers to pull all of those pesky servo cables in and out.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4.  The first step that I took was removing the motor from the stock frame and installing it in the Lynx frame.  Be careful removing the plug through the stock opening.  It is a tight fit.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (4)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.  I messed around with the motor mounting a little bit and shown here is the best fit in the Lynx Frame.  The motor connector on the right side.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (5)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6.  Next I installed the tail boom.  Shown here is the two screws on the bottom that tighten down on your tail boom to keep it from slipping out of the frame.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (6)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7.  Loosen the two screws before inserting your tail boom.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (7)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8.  Next unscrew and remove the top tail boom clamp.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9.  This is another cook feature of the frame.  Lynx added this tail boom clamp that routes the tail motor wires from the top instead of through the frame.  I tried only loosening the clamp screws, but the tail boom is a tight fit so I had to remove the clamp completely to install the boom.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (9)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10.  I am using my mod helicopter with this frame and I had already re-wired my tail motor, so I am unable to demonstrate how the tail motor wires route through the tail boom clamp, but it is self explanatory.  When you place your tail boom on the tail motor wires just rest on top of the frame, then you can route them down and right to the connector.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (10)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11.  Next install the included swashplate guide as shown.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (11)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12.  The next cool feature of this frame is the pitch and elevator servo holders.  I already broke one of the plastic pins on one of my servos removing and replacing them on the stock frame since you have to force them on and off.  With the Lynx frame loosen up the 3 screws around the main shaft bearing and with slight pressure on each side the carbon plate can be rocked from side to side in order to easily install both servos.  Hold the servos in place and tighten the screws back down then re-loctite them.  The tail servo is a tight fit so be careful removing and reinstalling the servo.  I bent one of the sides of the servo clamp when I installed it on the frame the first time.  I am very glad that I didn’t break it.  Most of my wiring is routed on the left, but the frame is a bit bigger than the stock frame, so I had to route my pitch servo wire on the right side or it would not reach the connector on the electronics.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (12)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13.  Next install the main electronics, the main shaft, and swashplate.  Shown in the picture is the Lynx Carbon Main Shaft and Swashplate.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (13)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (14)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14.  The rest is easy.  Install the rotor head and landing gear.  Once you have your helicopter back together make sure that you check that all servo arms are still at 90 degrees and that your blade’s pitch is still zero.  Mine shifted a little during the maintenance.  Also my rudder setting changed back to 3 and I had to change it back to 2.

15.  More notes on the frame is the size.  The Lynx Frame is a little bigger which has it’s advantages and well as disadvantages.  If you have completed the servo saver mod and using orings, then you probably noticed that the tail servo oring rubs against the aileron servo a little.  I have not noticed any effects in flight nor does the oring show any signs of rubbing, but they are that close together.  The Lynx frame is big enough to separate the two servos as shown below.

This is the tail servo with oring on the stock frame.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (19)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This shows the gap with the Lynx Frame.  I don’t feel that it is a game changer, but I did notice it and thought that I would point it out.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (20)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16.  The downside for the frame’s size is that it limits the canopy that you can use if you are using the Lynx Landing Gear which lowers the battery connector a little further than the stock landing gear to allow for a better connection for the battery.  The stock canopy works but the stock fiberglass canopies are a no go for this frame.  I also filed down the canopy posts a little bit, because the frame as it was, was pushing my grommets out.  As you can see below the battery connector is pushing quite a bit on the stock canopy.  The Align Fiberglass canopies will go onto the frame, but can only be secured with the top canopy posts on the frame.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (18)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17.  The stock canopy works even better if you trim the bottom off.  I had one that split there in a crash, so I just cut the rest off.  Below is the proof.  You can clearly see how far down the battery connector protrudes below the stock canopy below.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (21)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18.  My last note about the frame is the weight; according to Lynx the stock frame weighs in at 2.5g and the Lynx frame weighs in at 7.5g.  You can feel this weight difference in flight with the stock motor, which is why I have decided to flash my mod heli with BLHELI code and put a bigger motor in it.  More to come on that when my parts finally get here.  I will do a step by step tutorial on flashing this bad boy.  Anyway, if you are flying with a linear throttle curve you will need to raise your numbers a bit to 0-35-65-85-100, but the helicopter with this frame and stock motor does fly like a brick regardless.  Even if you are flying in stunt mode you will need to go with a flat throttle curve such as 100-100-100-100-100 or 90-90-90-90-90, but I wouldn’t go below 90%.  Flight times didn’t change though, but you can feel the helicopter struggling with the Lynx frame toward the end of the stock and Nano-Tech batteries.

I arrived at my above stats by flying 4 batteries through my stock Trex 150, then 4 batteries through this modded helicopter.  This way the differences are immediately felt.  Below is the modded heli and stock heli stats.

Modded Heli:

  1. main motor –  stock
  2. tail motor – stock
  3. Lynx main frame
  4. Lynx carbon main shaft
  5. Lynx swashplate
  6. Lynx ultralight landing gear
  7. Lynx lightweight tail motor mount and fin
  8. Lynx 47mm tail blade
  9. tail boom – stock
  10. canopy – stock
  11. head and main blades – stock
  12. Spektrum satellite

Control Heli (mostly stock):

  1. main motor – stock
  2. tail motor – stock
  3. frame – upgraded stock
  4. Lynx carbon main shaft
  5. swashplate – Align metal upgrade
  6. landing gear – stock
  7. Align metal tail motor mount upgrade and fin
  8. Lynx 47mm tail blade
  9. tail boom – stock
  10. canopy – Align fiberglass canopy
  11. head and main blades – stock
  12. Spektrum satellite

(Update 20 July 2014):  Flashed my helicopter with BL HELI and tried out both the HP06 and HP08 motors.  Both motors do fit into this frame without any modifications.  The HP06 motor has the same stats as the stock motor, but it does have a bit more of a kick and handles the weight of this frame nicely.

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Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Ultralight Co-Polymer Landing Skid

Although the Align Trex 150 DFC Lynx Ultralight Co-Polymer Landing Skid ($19.95) requires some assembly and wait time, I have to say that it is a good investment especially if you are annoyed with your batteries falling out and don’t want to use zip tie to secure your batteries.  Lynx has fixed that issue.  The platform for the battery connector is lower than the stock landing skid and this really does create a better connection for batteries with the stock connector.  You almost have to force your batteries off the connector with this skid and there is not more batteries coming disconnect during flight with this product.  I’ve tested the stock Align battery and the Turnigy Nano-Tech batteries with this skid.  The design of this skid is light weight, sturdy, tough, and looks awesome!

1.  The package contains the landing skid and sand paper as shown.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Landing Skid (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2.  The actual skid bars are attached to the top of the landing skid frame and you will need to use an exacto knife to separate them.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Landing Skid (4)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Landing Skid (5)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  Once you get the skid bars separated, just slide them into the main frame and use CA glue to permanently attach them and to keep them from shifting later in crashes.  Of course this requires some substantial wait time.  Once the glue dries the landing skid is ready to rock.  They do look cool and are very sturdy.  I added 004 Silicone 70 Orings to mine to keep the heli from spinning on take off.  Last you will need to sand down the frame posts until the landing skid fits into your frame.  The included sand paper takes forever and I ended up using a file to grind mine down until they fit in my frame properly.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Landing Skid (6)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4.  The only issue that I had with this landing skid is when used the Lynx Main Frame.  The included screws are too short.  Maybe I filed mine down a bit too far, but either way mine kept falling out of the Lynx frame during take off.  I robbed my Blade mCP X parts bin for some longer screws which works out very well.  Below the small screw is the Lynx screw and the longer screw is what I ended up using.  I wish I could offer you the size of the screw, but they were in my random bag.  They are the same diameter as the stock screw, just longer.  I am pretty sure they are in the Blade mCP X hardware bag for the Microheli frame.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Landing Skid (8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.  The Lynx Carbon Main Shaft Collar looks like a close fit and it is, but there is enough clearance.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (15)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Main Frame (16)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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 Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Swashplate

I don’t have much to say about the Align Trex 150 DFC Lynx Swashplate ($23.25), it works as advertised and I don’t feel much of a difference from Align’s Metal Upgrade in flight.  The Lynx Swashplate is very well built of course and I like how you can unscrew it to maintain the bearings or swap them out if need be.  Now I am just waiting to see if one swashplate out lasts the other.

1.  Here is a side by side comparison.  Left is the Align Metal Upgrade, middle Lynx, and right the plastic stock swashplate.

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Swashplate (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lynx Innovations - Align Trex 150 DFC Swashplate (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Tail Blades (42mm and 47mm)

I tried both of the Lynx Tail Blades on both of my helicopters and the results were the same on both.  The 42mm blade ($3.95) feels like the stock tail blade.  The 47mm blade ($4.35) I do like a lot.  This subject would be one of those based on preference of feel.  I really like how both of my helicopters feel with the 47mm blade.  I know that they are meant for the stretched setup, but they feel good to me on my helicopters period and hold very well.  I will be sticking with them.

1.  Here is the stock blade, 42mm, and 47mm in order from bottom to top for size comparison.

IMG_2355

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Align Trex 150 and 250 Blade Balancer

I have both so I purchased this blade balancer and I like it.  It is small and simple, it doesn’t get any better than that.

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The blade spindle is held in place with magnets.  There is another, bigger pin in the base for the Align Trex 250.

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The spindle just pulls off.

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is where the Align Trex 250 spindle is located, held in place in the base by magnets.  Slips right in and out.

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (4)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Align Trex 150 and 250 spindles together.

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (5)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Insert the spindle into your blades and push them together hard, otherwise they will be too lose.

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (7)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 and 250 DFC Blade Balancer (8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update 13 June 2014:

The Align Trex 150 DFC blade balancer does not work with the Align Trex 250 main blades.  I tried balancing my Trex 250 main blades with the balancer and the provided pin will not keep the blades stationary.  You can use this balancer with the Trex 250 tail blades.

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Align Trex 150 DFC Servo Saver Mod

I ran across this modification and decided that since I still crash quite a bit, that I should do this one ASAP.  It is fairly easy and I am using heat shrink on one heli.  O-rings on the other to experiment.  This is not new information and you can read the details here.

 

After cutting the arm, I rummaged through my heat shrink collection and found some that fits tight.

Align Trex 150 DFC Servo Saver Mod (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Servo Saver Mod (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is showing o-rings.  These are from www.oringsandmore.com, part number 006 silicone.

Align Trex 150 DFC Servo Saver Mod (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just an update as far as the difference between heat shrink and the orings on the servo arms.  Both of them are holding up well and heat shrink is definitely an alternative to using the orings.  I purchased the heat shrink used in this example from Home Depot.  They carry a box that contains an assortment of colors and sizes of heat shrink.  I’ve been able to use every size with all of my helicopters from the Blade Nano CP X to my Align Trex 250 DFC, so the package is a good investment.

(Update 20 July 2014):  This modification has been a must do.  I have had some pretty good crashes since doing the mod and have stripped none of my servos yet.  Still using my originals.

 

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Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch

I am going to walk you through ensuring that your servo arms are at 90 degrees and how to set zero pitch for your heli.  It is highly likely that you have at least one servo arm that isn’t sitting at 90 degrees which is very important.  That’s just the way it is and if you want a perfect heli you will need to buy more servo arms to keep trying them out to make them all 90 degrees.  You don’t need to wait for them, the heli will fly fine the way it is.  All digital servos so far in my experience are that way.  It’s just the way it is.

WARNING:  You will be using the throttle stick to make these adjustments.  Disconnect your main and tail motors before moving forward.

 

Turn on your radio and flip your throttle hold switch on just for safety.  Go to the Pitch Curve menu and make sure that you have a linear pitch curve.  Push your throttle stick up until the line on the screen shows 50/50.  You can use the center stick notch on your radio, but that is not as accurate as using the pitch curve menu.  The pitch curve screen will ensure you have it all even when we are done.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (7)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once you have your radio good, plug in a battery to your heli.  At this point I prefer to remove all of the servos, but you will need to remove the tail servo at least.  Let your heli power on and initialize.  Once the heli initializes, remove the battery.  This will lock the servos in the center position.  Now remove all your arms and move them around and try to get all 3 as close to 90 degrees as you can.  Once they are as close as you can get them, go ahead and reinstall them.

This photo shows one that is off.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It should look like this when you are done.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (9)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you don’t have them all at 90 degrees, you can move on.  It will fly, but if you want a perfect flying heli you will need to buy more arms to get them all at 90 degrees.  Once they are reinstalled, turn your radio and return to the pitch curve screen and find 50/50.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (12)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plug a battery into your heli and let it initialize.  When the heli has initialized, we are going to use the set button to cycle through the servos to fine adjust them.  Push the set button once and that will go to your aileron servo.  Use the throttle stick left and right on your radio to adjust the servo to 90 degrees.  Once your aileron servo is good, push the set button again moving on to the tail servo.  When that one is good push the set button again to cycle to your pitch servo.

NOTE:  During this process the light on the electronics will blink green.  One blink for every time you push the set button.  Now it should be blinking 3 times.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now that your servos are at 90 degrees, next we set zero pitch.  Push the set button once more and the green light should be blinking 4 times.  If not keep pushing it until you get a green light blinking 4 times.  Turn your heli to the side with blades installed and use the left and right movements of your rudder stick to even out the blades.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (11)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (13)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now zero pitch is set and you are good to go.  Push the set button two more times to exit out of the setup menu and happy flying.

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Align Trex 150 DFC Rudder Adjustment

This is in case you are flying around.  You give your heli a rudder movement and after you finish pushing the stick, the tail keep going a little, then you need to adjust your rudder.  This is how you do it.

 

Turn on your radio, then power on your heli.  Once your heli is initialized push the set button 5 times to enter the rudder adjust.  You know you are in the right menu when the small light on the right goes red.  Take not of how many times the red light blinks.  You have options 1-4 and the red light blinks to show you what setting it is on.  Most from the factory are set to 3 and your red light is probably blinking 3 times.  A setting of 2 seems to be the sweet spot, so move your radio throttle stick left to lower it and right to raise it.  Again if the red light is blinking 3 times then it is on setting 3.  You want it blinking 2 times.

Align Trex 150 DFC Setting Zero Pitch (1)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Once you setting is good push the set button one more time to exit setup or just unplug the battery.

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Align Trex 150 DFC – Lynx Servo Metal Gears

Lynx Official Metal Gear Instructions

LX1026-LX1027

Lynx Official Servo Saver Arm Instructions

LX1097

 

Okay, are they necessary?  Depends on your build.  If you have a stock setup and are using my servo savor mod, then you will not need them.  Recently I went BLHELI and after crashing 3 times with an HP08 main motor, my first time stripping my plastic gears.  Make note that on this particular heli I tested from stock, to HP06, then to HP08.  Anyway, I need them now and here is the skinny on installing them.  All that I have found online makes it seem way more easy than it actually is.

1.  The first servo that I modified I realized that the front comes off fine.  So does the back.  It can be messy and hard to put back together.  Before I go further, once you take the four screws out of it this is what you can end up with.  I am here to help you to avoid this stuff.  Why?  I pay attention to detail and take the time to tell you.

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (5)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2.  Avoid all of that drama and follow this next tip.  Tape it up.  Here I have taped up the back of the servo to keep the contents from spilling out when the screws are removed.  I left the tape, because once you take the screws and put them back in plastic it is now weaker.

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (2)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  Once you are all taped up, hook up your servos to your heli and set “ZERO PITCH RIGHT NOW,” and remove all screws from the back of the servo.

WARNING:  Ensure all servos are set to “Zero Pitch” before proceeding. 

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (3)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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4.  Now carefully remove the top cover.  This whole process requires Finesse!

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (7)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5.  Now that your gears are exposed, CHECK THIS!  The following picture shows the tab aligned with the side of the servo.  If yours does not look like this, then put it back together, hook it back up to your heli, and set “Zero Pitch!”

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (8)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6.  When your servo matches mine above, then proceed.  Take the front cover and turn it.  You should see a white plastic ring in it.  Otherwise it is stuck on the biggest gear.  Remove it and set it aside.  You won’t need it again.

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7.  Now remove the pin from the gears closest to the largest gears.

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8.  Keep the pin and put the gears aside, you won’t need them again.

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9.  Next remove the biggest (Main Gear).

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10.  Remove the bottom plastic portion and set the rest aside.

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11.  This is all you need to continue on from the stock steup.

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12.  It is hard to see.  Maybe it is my age, but I don’t think so.  Take that bottom plastic piece and mark the flat spot with a black Sharpie.  It will help you line it up.

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13.  Line up the flat spot on the plastic part with the hanging down flat part of the main metal gear.

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14.  Once you have it lined up, install it in the servo case.  the blacked out part and indention needs to line up with the side of middle of the servo case. This is for all servos.

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (19)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15.  You may need to hold the main gear.  This gets tricky, but your metal main gear needs to stay in this position.  Next install the middle metal gears.

Align Trex 150 DFC - Lynx Metal Servo Gears (20)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16.  Install both center gears and reinstall the pin.

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17.  Install the included Shim.  It is a tight fit.  Lay the shim onto the main gear, then use the plastic ring to push it down all of the way.

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18. Ensure you apply some lube on the gears before closing it up.  I prefer Tri-Flow.   Put the top cover back on, reinstall the screws, and you are ready to go.

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Align Trex 150 DFC Videos

This is my stock Trex 150 flashed with BL HELI.  Just some hovering and orientation.  I don’t have a camera man so did the best that I could with a tripod.

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