Blade 130X


Blade 130X Breakdown

Blade 130X Review
Blade mCP X BL/Blade 130X Parallel Charging Board (Ep Buddy)
Microheli CNC Delrin Main Gear with Auto-Rotation Hub
Blade 130X Brushless Build
Blade 130X Crash Kit
Blade 130X Servo Connectors Closeup
Blade 130X Microheli X Frame (Without Rotary Servo Mount)
Blade 130X Lynx Tail System – Includes T.B.S. Tail Boom, Servo, and the Xtreme Push Rod

Blade 130X

Blade 130X Review

The Blade 130X is a very good step up helicopter.  You will get so many mixed emotions about it though and I am going to try to touch on all of those points.  This bad boy is a 6 channel 3D flying power house, that I have to say that I like this heli a lot.  If you do your research and read other reviews you will see tons of folks complaining about Blade’s Quality Assurance when it comes to the Blade 130X.

I cannot deny that there does seem to be an issue there.  This heli is not ready to fly out of the box as the box says.  However, the only Blade heli that I own that was ready to fly out of the box was the Nano CP X.  Actually the only three things that I did to my 130X out of the box was change all the orings, set zero pitch, and sand down the “A” gear so that it was not rubbing on the elevator servo.

Who really cares in the end?  The 130X is so much fun that it is worth all the work.  This heli reminds me of my Align Trex 250 build.  I got the 130X when they first came out and I am still trying to get it dialed in and flying right.  Regardless, it does fly and is a lot of fun even if it is not flying right on que the way that I want.  Now I do not mind tinkering so the quality assurance issue has not bothered me at all.  I was disappointed that the heli came with a plastic “A” gear instead of the aftermarket metal “A” gear that was being sold the same day the 130X hit the market.

You have heard that line a hundred times if you have been doing your research.  I know, if only you had a dollar for every time you read that.  I went brushless with mine as well; almost right away.  The stock motor is powerful but it runs super hot and is the reason I ultimately went brushless from the start.  Let me say that the 130X is a handful with the stock motor, so it is going to be even more of a handful brushless.  If this is your first heli of this size be prepared for a good ride on your maiden flight.  A couple more awesome points about this heli is that there is a huge aftermarket following.  Tons of parts and bling available for it.  Lastly, the brushless setup on this heli was the easiest  brushless mod that I have done so far.

The bottom line with the 130X is that it is a good all around trainer.  Chances are a rc heli pilot will become an ace mechanic long before he/she becomes an ace pilot.  This heli is good all around because it will teach you building, mechanic, and pilot skills.  I will recommend it.

You can go here to download my DX8 setup file.

Blade 130X – DX8


Blade mCP X BL/Blade 130X Parallel Charging Board (Ep Buddy)Micro ParaBoard PH3 for UMX and 130X

The Micro ParaBoard PH3 for UMX and 130X ($13.95) turned out to be a solid investment on my part.  I originally bought this paraboard in order to parallel charge six of my Blade 130X batteries in series.  Eventually I converted my 130X batteries to micro deans connectors, put this board away, and forgot about it until I received Horizon Hobby’s latest creation, the Blade mCP X BL.  I remembered I had this and I was so pleased to realize that the stock batteries for the Blade mCP X BL work with this paraboard.

This paraboard does rock!  I have two different Hyperion battery chargers (1420i/ 0720i) and some of my other paraboards will work with one charger, but not both.  Usually my other paraboards will charge on both, but will not store charge on both for example.  This micro paraboard from Ep Buddy works with both chargers in all charging modes.  Not only that but it charges six batteries at one time fast, accurately, and safely.  Additonally this parpaboard is high quality and very well built.  I highly recommend this paraboard for anyone that is going to stick with Eflite stock or similar mCP X BL batteries.

Technical Notes From Ep Buddy:

  •  The circuit is protected with self-resettable fuses to prevent accident short of batteries in parallel charge.
  • Micro ParaBoard PH3 has 6 sets of 3 pin JST-PH connectors.  This type of connectors are used in batteries of E-Flite UMX series airplanes and Blade 130X heli.
  • Up to six 2S batteries with three pin PH connectors can be safely charged in parallel.


Microheli CNC Delrin Main Gear with Auto-Rotation HubMH130X067X

Like many things in the rc heli world you will get a lot of mixed emotions about this part/bling.  Whether or not you ever decide to try and auto-rotate a Blade 130X.  I believe that this is a very good investment.  The Blade 130X is so quiet with this piece of bling.  The heli also flies so smoothly with it.  Although it has a metal main shaft I really love the way my 130X feels and sounds with this installed.  My dislikes is the price for the whole unit of course.  My last is how long the main gear is going to last and how often I am going to have to replace it since just the gear part itself is fairly pricey.  Whether or not I go back to as stock setup really depends on how long this lasts.  I will keep this review updated on the durability.

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Blade 130X Brushless Build

WARNING:  This modification will void the warranty on your 3 in 1 board.

I completed the initial brushless build in the pictures with the Xtreme Spin 8800 brushless motor.  I have since upgraded to the HP06 which has one hell of  a kick.  I recommend the Spin 8800 if you want something closer to stock power.  The thing you need to realize with your motor choice is that you can use the built in ESC on the stock 3 in 1.  If you go that route all you have to do is swap the motor and add the right motor plug.  With that setup whatever motor you use is all you get.  Now if you add an external ESC that is flashed like I did in this build, you could just go with the HP08 and use the flashed software to set the governer to make the HP08 work and feel like the Spin or HP06.  I know that is a lot to take in especially if you are new to the hobby.  Please if you have any questions, feel free to email me.

The only ESC’s that I have dealt with so far in my career are the XP-3A, XP-7A, and the XP-12A.  The XP-3A is a must for the Nano CP X or for the tail brushless mod on the MCPX.  The only main ESC that I use now is the XP-12A which is all you need for a micro brushless build.  I have never had any good luck with the XP-7A.  I do not know why, I just always end up breaking them when doing the soldering.  That being said the following build includes the XP-12A external ESC flashed with the Spin 8800 brushless motor.

1.  This is the front of the XP-12A.  The pads circled in black, white, and red are the solder points to hook up your BLHeli flashing tool stick.  There is a ton of information available to learn how to flash.  Go here to read more.  The white arrow shows you where to solder the signal wire that goes the stock 3 in 1.  The chip that is circled in purple and labeled “remove.”  Remove it before flight.  You can use side cutters or an Xacto knife.
Blade 130X xp-12afront









2.  This photo shows the back of the XP-12A.  The red and black arrows show where your power wires are soldered too.  You will need to connect a battery to the XP-12A ESC in order to flash it.  The purple arrows indicate where the motor wires are soldered.  You can direct solder the motor wires to the pads or make a connector.  I suggest using a connector on the 130X, that will make maintenance easier.
Blade 130X Brushless xp-12aback










3.  This shows where the signal wire is soldered
Blade 130X Brushless signal












4.  Here is my flased XP-12A attached to the bottom of stock 3 in 1 using servo mount tape.  The yellow wire is my signal wire.  The XP-12A comes with the thick blue wires attached.  There is where you can add your motor plug or de-solder the blue wires and attach your motor wires directly.  It will make more sense if you have one in front of you.
Blade 130X Brushless









Blade 130X Brushless (1)











5.  I soldered wires the battery wire point on the 3 in 1 to the ESC, then attached battery wires with micro deans connectors to the ESC.
Blade 130X Brushless (2)










Blade 130X Brushless (3)










6.  This shows my motor wires coming from the right side of the 3 in 1 and connected.
Blade 130X Brushless (4)











Blade 130X Brushless (5)










7.  This shows the motor installed.  You will need to trim the frame slightly as shown.
Blade 130X Brushless (6)










8.  This shows the 3 in 1 mounting.  As you can see you will need to move the 3 in 1 forward slightly allowing clearance for the XP-12A ESC.
Blade 130X Brushless (7)










9.  Battery installed.
Blade 130X Brushless (8)










Blade 130X Brushless (9)










Blade 130X Brushless (10)










Blade 130X Brushless (11)










10.  Bottom view of the 3 in 1 mounting.
Blade 130X Brushless (12)










Blade 130X Brushless (13)










Anytime you do a brushless build with an external ESC you will need to arm the ESC.  Turn on your radio, connect the battery to the heli then flip throttle hold on and you will hear a beep.  Flip the throttle hold off and you will hear another beep.  Once you hear that second beep your ESC is armed and the motor will now turn.  Make sure your blades are removed, then throttle up a little to check the motor direction.  The motor pinion should be spinning clockwise.  If the pinion is turning counter clockwise, de-solder 2 of the motor wires.  It does not matter which 2.  Swap the 2 wires, re-solder, and now the pinion will be turning clockwise.

Common 2S Main Motors (11 February 2013):

1.  AEO Hummingbird CH05XL
KV:  8,000
Shaft:  1.5 mm
Pinion:  9T, 10T, or  11T

2.  Oversky HP08S
KV:  8,000
Shaft:  1.5 mm
Pinion:  9T, 10T, or  11T

3.  Oversky HP06V2
KV:  8,200
Shaft:  1.5 MM
Pinion:  9T, 10T, or  11T

4.  Oversky HP10S
KV:  7,800
Shaft:  1.5 mm
Pinion:  9T, 10T, or  11T

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Blade 130X Crash Kit:

  1. Rotor Head Linkages (BLH3713) $4.99
  2. Rear Tail Gear Set (BLH3736) $3.99
  3. Feathering Spindle (BLH3712) $7.99
  4. Canopy (BLH3722) $14.99
  5. Landing Skids (BLH3706) $5.99

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Blade 130X Servo Connectors Closeup

Someone emailed me recently and asked for closeups of the servo connectors on the 3 in 1.  I figured I would just post them here for anyone else that may need them.
130xservo (1)









130xservo (2)









130xservo (3)









130xservo (4)









130xservo (5)











130xservo (6)









130xservo (7)







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Blade 130X Microheli X Frame (Without Rotary Servo Mount)

I spend a lot of time working on this heli and got the Microheli X Frame in hopes that the frame would make the process fixing and adjusting the 130X easier and over all I wasn’t disappointed.  The frame is very well thought out and very sturdy.  With the stock frame I continually strip out the plastic where the screws install, even when I was trying really hard not to strip them out.  You won’t have to worry about that with this frame.  The front servo is easier to remove and reinstall with this frame.  In the end my only complaint was routing the servo wires which really isn’t a big deal.  It just takes a little forward thinking just like with the stock frame.  Maybe some small clips for the wires would be something to eliminate that issue.

1.  This is everything in the box.  With the frame you will find a battery strap,  3 in 1 board mounting foam, and extra hardware.

mh frame (1)







mh frame (2)







mh frame (3)







2.  Below is the Microheli frame with the stock frame for size comparisons.

mh frame (4)







mh frame (5)







mh frame (6)







mh frame (7)







3.  The main bearings are secured to the frame with three screws.  I did try removing them, but they are wouldn’t budge without the use of heat.

mh frame (8)







mh frame (9)







4.  The battery tray adjusts up and down to allow bigger motors.

mh frame (10)







5.  Initially I removed the battery tray to install the front servo.  I realized that the two top screws can be removed and loosening up the pivot screws will allow you to raise the battery tray enough to remove and reinstall the servo.

mh frame (11)







6.  HP08 motor installation is a breeze.  This can also be done with the battery tray installed.

mh frame (12)







mh frame (13)







7.  There is no change with installing the main gears.  It is still a task with which I have gotten used to.

mh frame (14)







8.  The space between the main gear and the back of the forward servo has always been an issue with the stock frame.  As you can see here there is enough space so that the main gear isn’t rubbing on the back of the front servo.

mh frame (15)







mh frame (16)







9.  Here is a close up of the tail section.  The tail bearing is secured with four screws.  The four screws behind it need to be loosened slightly when installing the tail boom.

mh frame (18)







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Blade 130X Lynx Tail System

I have become a huge Lynx fan in the past year and of course I have installed their whole tail system including the new tail servo.  I don’t have much to report on the system yet, since I haven’t had time to fly my newly rebuilt 130X, but I will report on operation as soon as I can.  The installation was easy.  I can feel the difference in smoothness just from spinning my heli up on the bench, so I expect this to be a very stable and smooth flying beast when I take it out.  The tail servo does operate flawlessly smooth as well.

1.  Blade 130X Lynx T.B.S System Tail Boom

mh frame (17)







lynx tail (1)







lynx tail (2)







2.  Blade 130X Lynx Tail Servo DS-883 With Support – Set – Silver

The servo comes ready to go.  The wire doesn’t have to be shortened or soldered.  The package comes with a variety of servo horns as well as the carbon fiber mount that attaches to the silver supports.

lynx tail (3)







Here is the Lynx DS-883 (Left) next to the E-flite DS35 Digital Super Sub-Micro Servo (Right)  for size comparison.  As you can see the Lynx servo is a little bigger.

lynx tail (4)







One feature that I like about the Lynx servo is that it has a metal gear as opposed to the plastic gear on the E-flite servo.

lynx tail (5)







3.  Blade 130X Xtreme Metal Tail Servo Mount With Carbon Push Rod Set

The Xtreme push rod was given to me as a gift, so I decided to install and and try it out.  The package comes with the push rod, regular tail servo mount, and a slider attachment.  Some assembly is required of course, but putting it together was easy and final adjustment for the tail was a breeze with this addition.

lynx tail (6)







lynx tail (7)







lynx tail (8)







This is the slider attachment.  I wasn’t able to use this with the Lynx servo, since it is designed to be used with the stock tail servo.  I put it all together for a demonstration though so you can see how it works and comes together.

lynx tail (9)







lynx tail (10)







lynx tail (11)







lynx tail (12)







I thought the slider was pretty cool even though I had to remove it for my setup.  The middle bracket attaches to the tail boom and keeps the push rod movement stable and smooth.  Refer to the link above to see it actually mounted on the heli with the stock tail servo.

lynx tail (13)







Now all these parts coming together.  I was worried that the Xtreme push rod would buckle without the slider but it is sturdy and does not buckle during servo operation without the slider.

lynx tail (14)







lynx tail (15)







lynx tail (16)







lynx tail (17)







lynx tail (18)







lynx tail (19)







During servo setup make sure that you adjust the push rod so that the tail slider assembly is in the middle as shown here.

lynx tail (20)







As you can see in this photo, I had to move my servo back quite a bit to due to the Xtreme push rod.

lynx tail (21)







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